Give your rod a coat of carnuba wax to help keep the grime from returning so quickly as well as making it easier to clean up next time. All my rods get a coat of wax before they ship. Ok cool! That sounds easy enough. Just apply to to rod and not the guides with a rag correct? It wouldn't hurt the ...

Give your rod a coat of carnuba wax to help keep the grime from returning so quickly as well as making it easier to clean up next time. All my rods get a coat of wax before they ship.

In my opinion, you're better off just getting another rod that suits your needs. If you don't think you can do the work, and need to pay to have it done, I think you're money ahead finding a different rod. Not to mention the loss of any warranty you may have by doing this work. Personally, adding th...

I'll 3rd the suggestions. Put the tip back on and fish it.

I did see that post, that’s why I was wondering if that blank would work. Right now I’m using a gloomis sr782 imx, I like the rod but was hoping for a blank that had a little more back bone. Sounds like I might have to put in another order to nfc. :D I measured the Loomis S782 at 150 grams. And the...

I did see that post, that’s why I was wondering if that blank would work. Right now I’m using a gloomis sr782 imx, I like the rod but was hoping for a blank that had a little more back bone. Sounds like I might have to put in another order to nfc. :D I measured the Loomis S782 at 150 grams. And the...

As for guides I was thinking using the Fuji KW and KT going 7, 6, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5 So from a your experienced view point, can you suggest a guide train for the builds and possibly a grip combo that follows your guidance. There is nothing wrong with your train. That should work just fine. Pers...

My thoughts after 500+ rods... 95% of that sensitivity gain you pick up by building light is all from your hand to the tip of the rod. The seat and the grip are the remaining 5%. And some would argue that building too light in the butt ruins a good balance and negates your sensitivity with poor bala...

I use a different, but similar, measuring system. The results of the measurements don't really give you that sort of info. You need a base line to compare to. If I assume that G. Loomis' power ratings are spot on and gospel, then I can compare back to that. If an MB843 is rated for 1/4 - 3/4 ounces ...

The only components that really can get reused are the guides. In special circumstances you can marry up the handle to a new blank. But things have to be just right. I do have a customer that has sent me three broken slant bridge rods over the years and I've made new rods for him using the component...

I don't think PB has a blank that will work. Maybe in the lightest 6'6 model, but I haven't used that blank. I have it and wouldn't recommend it for this application. Great blank. Just not what I'd use here. I go to the old Loomis blanks HS9000 and P8400. North Fork makes some very comparable model...

My advice is to pick one and learn it. Totally agree I think there is much more to be said for your comfort level and proficiency with a product than how it stacks up against another one. I once knew an accomplished builder that raved about whatever finish he used. It was a reputable big name finis...

hoohoorjoo wrote: ↑

Sun Jan 12, 2020 8:49 am

Is that above the fore grip or just behind the rear grip?

Good question. I was assuming that was ahead of the fore grip.

If that was my rod what I would do for a repair is; I'd cut the blank, cut a little of the damage out, remove the fore grip, and oversleeve the cut with a section of another blank, and finally wrap and finish the oversleeve.

If that is as bad as it looks to me, its always tough to tell with just a picture, you'll probably blow up your rod the next time you get a good load on it. The cracks won't allow the blank to maintain its hoop strength and as the load gets down to that area and the blank starts to take on its sligh...