As for guides I was thinking using the Fuji KW and KT going 7, 6, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5 So from a your experienced view point, can you suggest a guide train for the builds and possibly a grip combo that follows your guidance. There is nothing wrong with your train. That should work just fine. Pers...

My thoughts after 500+ rods... 95% of that sensitivity gain you pick up by building light is all from your hand to the tip of the rod. The seat and the grip are the remaining 5%. And some would argue that building too light in the butt ruins a good balance and negates your sensitivity with poor bala...

I use a different, but similar, measuring system. The results of the measurements don't really give you that sort of info. You need a base line to compare to. If I assume that G. Loomis' power ratings are spot on and gospel, then I can compare back to that. If an MB843 is rated for 1/4 - 3/4 ounces ...

The only components that really can get reused are the guides. In special circumstances you can marry up the handle to a new blank. But things have to be just right. I do have a customer that has sent me three broken slant bridge rods over the years and I've made new rods for him using the component...

I don't think PB has a blank that will work. Maybe in the lightest 6'6 model, but I haven't used that blank. I have it and wouldn't recommend it for this application. Great blank. Just not what I'd use here. I go to the old Loomis blanks HS9000 and P8400. North Fork makes some very comparable model...

My advice is to pick one and learn it. Totally agree I think there is much more to be said for your comfort level and proficiency with a product than how it stacks up against another one. I once knew an accomplished builder that raved about whatever finish he used. It was a reputable big name finis...

hoohoorjoo wrote: ↑

Sun Jan 12, 2020 8:49 am

Is that above the fore grip or just behind the rear grip?

Good question. I was assuming that was ahead of the fore grip.

If that was my rod what I would do for a repair is; I'd cut the blank, cut a little of the damage out, remove the fore grip, and oversleeve the cut with a section of another blank, and finally wrap and finish the oversleeve.

If that is as bad as it looks to me, its always tough to tell with just a picture, you'll probably blow up your rod the next time you get a good load on it. The cracks won't allow the blank to maintain its hoop strength and as the load gets down to that area and the blank starts to take on its sligh...

I set all my guides in place with guide foot adhesive. Then I measure out my wrap starting points. The end comes naturally when you run out of guide foot. I generally start the wrap that is a distance equal to one-third the guide foot length.

I mark all of my wraps with masking tape.

Sweet.

I was speaking with Point Blank on another topic and eventually found myself getting the correct RDA information for this blank. If they haven't already, they will be correcting the published data. Power: 630gr AA: 68˚ Wt: 2.36oz Butt Dia: 14.2mm Tip size: 5.0 12 in. up from butt dia: 14.0mm Balance...

Doesn't seem like the right blank. Does the weight of the blank match up correctly? Does the power weight match up with a different model? Not from Point Blank but I've received several mislabeled blanks this past year. If it weren't for RDA, I wouldn't have known. Just blindly built a horribly over...

tacklejunkie2 wrote: ↑

Mon Sep 23, 2019 9:05 pm

The cork grips that I've held after this product was applied felt slick and slippery. Maybe it's just me.

My opinion...that's a sign of took much Cork Seal being applied.