Oolie, If you are service the reel that often, I don't see where a small dab of grease would hurt. I've done that to a couple reels that I use in brackish water, and I only rinse them after each use, shake the water out, and let them dry. I always make sure the screws are snug, yet not overtightened...

I've included info on frame screws from another post in this sticky, as suggested by another forum member. A small bit of prevention can eliminate a very frustrating experience later. Here is the link to original post: http://www.tackletour.net/T3Forum/viewtopic.php?t=22096 There is always the poten...

Nice pike and rod/reel!

Chuck

I'm not trying to scare anyone -- but just putting things in perspective. There is always the potential for problems, when stainless steel fasteners are used with soft metals like aluminum, magnesium, etc. Galling, fretting and galvanic corrosion can frequently occur on our reel frames, resulting in...

wantthat asked:

...is that the Steez 103 would be a pretty good addition for 1/4-1/2 oz applications?

It works great in that range. You can go a little lower if you select the right rod, but that's what you have the Pixy for. Going higher isn't a problem either.

Chuck

bcast, The Steez spool works in the TD-Z, with similar but not exactly the same results. (I suspect this has more to do with the travel of the inductor and magnets in the TD-Z. The magnets are a little different in the Steez.) Although the spool is a little lighter and has more bling, I've purchased...

The 100H spool has Magforce Z, while the 103 spool has Magforce V. The braking system and line capacity (depth and sides), is the major difference between the spools. Magforce V requires a tapered sided spool for the tabs to ride on, while Magforce Z has a seperate tapered edge the braking tabs ride...

Based on my own personal preferences, I'd upgrade spool bearings, drag and lastly handle knobs, in that order. Upgraded spool bearings will improve casting performance. Most report that casting will require less effort to achieve the same distance and accuracy improves with upgraded spool bearings. ...

Lubina, Here's my take on upgrading the handle bearings in the 4 bearing TD-Z handle, and 2 bearing handles in other reels: - I feel the improvement I've seen in changing TD-Z knob bearings over to ceramic hybrids is probably due to the better tracking offered by a higher quality bearing -- rather t...

kbookert had one on a TD-Z that was stuck in the frame. I believe he had Nutter in GA make the repair. You could PM him for details if you don't want to attempt the repair yourself.

http://www.nutterrodandreel.com/Services.cfm

Chuck

The one sitting in the middle of the magnets is 3x8x4mm. The other spool bearing is pinned to the spool shaft, it is 5x11x4mm. You'll need to remove the spool pin, to get the bearing off, it can be quite a challenge. If you search the forum archives (using the blue seach option just above the suppor...

fbass, The piece that keys the prop to the shaft is called the Pin-Drive, based on my familiarity with recent Powerdrive Models. However, some older models may list it as something a little different (e.g. Pin-95-4HPS, etc.). So, here is a link to Minkota schematics, hopefully you'll be able to find...

I use the .5's in early winter to mid-summer, and then switch to the 1.5's for the rest of the season. I pretty much use blue bream all the time when I'm using RC's.

Chuck

Oolie, If I have a burr in the grooves, I typically use an extremely fine and thin jewelers file to knock it off. Then I just polish it -- I use Fabulustre jewelers rouge with a dremel tool fitted with a small buffing wheel. [That way it's pretty difficult to remove much base metal from the areas of...

Thanks Connie. I've been flat on my back for the past couple of weeks, and it looks like I'll be down-and-out for a few more. However, every once and a while I sneak away to the computer (when my wife doesn't notice...).

Chuck