If you're a skilled builder, you can make your own ferrule and turn your 1-piece blank into a 2-piece rod.

I have this in my cart right now for guides. 1 - size 10 KWFG double foot 3 - size 6 KBFG single foot belly 5 - size 5 KTFG runners. Do you think the heavier single foot bellies are needed during the transition, after it or not at all? Needed? No. But I like a transition look. And I would just do o...

1. What sizes would you recommend for the stripper, bumper and runner guides? I don't do simple spiral wraps. I really don't like them at all and do a modified Roberts Wrap. That being said, on most freshwater rods, I will use three sizes total. Stripper, running, and transition. 2. Do you size the...

Well, it was a noble effort but unfortunately didn't end well. It broke last night on the second fish. I didn't want to rain on your parade, but I saw that coming the first time I read your original post. I've been there and done that before. My best guess is the carbon fiber rod, even though somew...

I am on week 7 of a wait on a customer build.

I've turned some mediocre factory rods into some really nice sticks by doing that. It'll even improve a good factory rod.

Some of my very first rod building was reguiding and/or completely rebuilding my Berkley Series One rods. They really turned into nice sticks.

I would use the fiberglass mesh self-adhesive drywall tape. It works excellent, holds itself in place better and is porous. The epoxy gets all around it and still leaves plenty of blank surface area to bond to, as well. Not to mention, its not adversely affected by water like masking tape is. X2!!!...

I would use the fiberglass mesh self-adhesive drywall tape. It works excellent, holds itself in place better and is porous. The epoxy gets all around it and still leaves plenty of blank surface area to bond to, as well. Not to mention, its not adversely affected by water like masking tape is. X2!!!!!

As long as the butt diameter is small enough that the seat can go on from the rear, yes you can do that. Your desired seat has to have an ID large enough to get past the butt.

mobass11652 wrote:The only freshwater rod I have seen hem on was a very early G Loomis, GLX.... Have never seen any others though

I seem to recall that some of the very first GLX's available to custom builders required an underwrap to maintain a warranty on the blank. Those early GLX's were fragile blanks.

I've only worked on one rod with them. And it was a saltwater rod.

For freshwater rods, they are completely unnecessary. I don't even do them on Muskie sticks.

For a bass stick that you're trying to keep light, it certainly seems very counterproductive.

It depends on if you plan to throw braid-to-flouro/mono leaders at any point. Couldn't agree more. Guide size is very dependent on your line and/or connection knots, leaders, swivels, etc. Some people tend to believe the bigger the rod, the bigger the guides. That isn't the case. Its about line man...

ss30378 wrote:Matt do you happen to know the diameter of the matagi balancers?

1.063"
27mm

I've used Matagi's screw on balancers a number of times as upgrades to factory rods. Looks good and you can adjust your own weight as you see fit.

I have a mold for pouring my own weights for placing inside a blank. I use those weights frequently.

So im working on a really lightweight ultralight blank. planning on using the airwave guides. The only problem im running into is that im going to end up with close to 10 guides on a 6'8" rod. Im going to do a spiral wrap as well since that seemed to help keep the line off the blank. Any suggestion...