CRBB has a miniscule amount of surface coating on the bearing race that wears out within the first few uses - the metal is then exposed - stick to routine maintenance than gymic technology. And don't forget that most bearings especially stainless are the bare minimum to maintain hardness and maintai...

Few decades of non Green too...

I'm honestly surprised Basalt fibre hasn't made its way into a graphite composite yet?

I'm all for the screw down zip tie, or if I could get my hands on the Prox keeper's...

On some of not most Shimano reels now you can find a 'recycle' triangle and a number which indicates the year of production, very handy.

Would be nice to see the year of production to accurately know what your getting.

I bought some vintage rods from the US and had them sent to Australia. Two Shimano Chopsticks - 1980 circa style pistol grip and the rest. One came absolutely flawless and the second well all I can say is - fraudulent reproduction. I paid good money for these and they came smelling like a crusty cig...

That's the nature of plastics these days. Daiwa don't seem to mark what type of plastics they use around a reel either...

But if anyone needs a good glue to put things back together "Plexus MA310".

Same thing happened to my Alphas Type R and a OG Calais I worked on, could've been a hit or a incorrect assembly or even application of the side plate?

Quench in motor oil or quenching oil.

A proper reproduction of an old model wouldn't be that hard, most surfaces inside are flat and external sides are stamped, wouldn't be that hard other than stamping dies and tooling which could be used across multiple platforms (which is already done today). The old Bantam models IMHO were bare bone...

Is anyone actually looking at the lubricants their using and researching the base carrier and the anti wear packages involved? The blue Hiro Seiko is Mineral Oil +Molybdenum Disulfide. The gray is Organic Molybdenum and Synthetic Ester. Research molybdenum disulfide and saltwater before using.

Is anyone actually looking at the lubricants their using and researching the base carrier and the anti wear packages involved?

Strip down the reel and check the bearing OD and the bearing cup OD - see if there is slop between those two surfaces - if there is either shim the radial surface or bearing retaining fluid.

Do this for the main gear and the pinion bearings.

Just a idea.

hoohoorjoo wrote: ↑

Sat Aug 12, 2023 10:01 am

Anodizing gives a hardened, smooth, flat surface. Polishing the gears will likely remove or compromise the micro-layer of hard anodization.

Anodising gives a form of lubrication - hence Tuffram etc.

Nylon absorbs water and has been known to split a spool of an Alvey.

So it's undeniable that it'll do damage to a thin walled spool.