The Corrosion X HD (green can)is basically what you are referring to. Much thicker like a liquid grease. They are both penetrating oils though. The red can seems to be more of a pure liquid like an oil that easily penetrates to loosen corroded parts, and also protects surfaces against corrosion better than most. Corrosion X has some pretty good videos on their site showing how good it works to waterproof electronics. Been a while since I watched one, but I think they were spraying down electric motors and then dunking them to see how long they would run. I’ll see if I can find one for you.LgMouthGambler wrote: ↑Mon May 20, 2019 9:01 amThis Corrosion X that I hear about often on here, to me seems like a penetrant/liquid grease to me. I used to use something similar to that on my BMX bike chains, and it was like a waxy/silicone type spray stuff. I wonder what is the makeup of it.
Another thought: anyone try mixing a bit of grease and oil together to get a similar effect?
Roller clutch issues?
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Re: Roller clutch issues?
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Re: Roller clutch issues?
I have continually pointed to BOTH types... here is the official Shimano AR replacement guide for their baitcast reels:lifeofRiley wrote: ↑Mon May 20, 2019 12:28 am
You continually point to one-way roller clutches and it is clear reading OP that this is referring to casting reels. Please read and comprehend posts by other users. No one is recommending globbing a pile of grease on stradic or sustain roller clutches.
http://fish.shimano.com/content/dam/shi ... everse.pdf
And I quote it here for you:
"Use a cotton swab to apply a very light coat of Bantam® Oil on the outside of the inner tube and to the inside of the roller bearing."
Imagine that! Shimano, Inc. says to use OIL. Go figure!
Here is what the legendary Alan Tani has to say:
https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=1682.0
"How to clean:
The proper way is to pick out each roller from the cage. Clean the cage and the ramps as well as the rollers. treat all metal parts with a corrosion inhibitor (corrosionX and or TSI). DO NOT GREASE! Grease is too heavy and will inhibit proper motion of the rollers. Light oil or a very light grease/oil blend. Reinstall the rollers. Insert a shaft and test. In the engaged state they should not slip under heavy load. If they do the ramps and or the rollers are damaged beyond serviceability."
Lew's service tips:
https://www.lews.com/themes/lews_theme/ ... oreLFS.pdf
"Apply oil to ALL bearings. Apply grease to the bushings, pinion gears, drive gears, and crank gears."
Again, NO WHERE does it say to put grease on any bearing, including AR bearing. Imagine that!
So far the greasers are completely STRIKING OUT here, while us oilers are winning the game every step of the way, while some want to attack the messenger with pure BS and failed arguments. Imagine that! Go figure!
Beating up on me, does not change the physics. I said NO GREASE from over 35 years of experience and professional training. If some do not want to be open minded and actually LISTEN to what a pro has to say it is not my problem. No need to go on and on about it with pure BS and personal attacks.
Shall I go dig up more independent confirmations of what I said from the start?
Here is the infamous Alan Hawk's advice:
http://www.alanhawk.com/blog/care.html
"An instant anti-reverse clutch needs to be cleaned with a solvent, then shake and dry it if possible and lube the innards and brake discs with thin oil. Oil the clutch's sleeve as well."
I could go on and on, but I think some just want to argue with me rather than face the facts!
Argue with them! To me, it is set in stone and should be an established standard by now, especially on TT.
Why is there a concerted effort of hate? And why is it allowed?
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Re: Roller clutch issues?
You know LMG, you are right about X being a penetrant, but I'd suggest to ignore that as an AR bearing does not need a penetrant and that causes no harm. If you read the product data sheet, it says this product is an anti-seize lubricant which is an important characteristic.
CX maintains viscosity no matter what the temperature. We hear about AR bearings failing in low temperature times of the year or geographic locations which are cold. Some greases will thicken as temps lower which is another reason to avoid grease in AR bearings. It will act like glue, especially as temps drop and causes AR failures, not because anything is wrong with the AR, but because the wrong lubricant was used on it leading to the failure in colder temps.
Corrosion X will NOT do this. We can count on CX to maintain constant viscosity even in freezing temperatures, and this alone is in part what makes corrosion X such a great product for AR bearings. It will not cause an AR to seize up at low temps.
But, since it has a great light viscosity to begin with because it is a true synthetic, makes it ideal for AR bearings because it stays on the metal parts, case and needle bearings, and does not dry out, and does not fade away, nor does it break down and separate like some lubricants do and keeps a nice vapor thin coating on metal parts protecting them from rust and keeps on lubricating long after other lesser oils disappear. This product is a polar bonding lubricant that stays in place while others can move off places needing lubrication and corrosion prevention.
And CX meets the U.S. Navy and U.S. military corrosion specs: MIL-PRF-81309G.
This being said, we can not use it in our shop because CX is accused of "penetrating" under painted surfaces and is said to creep under painted surfaces causing some paints to flake off. But in all fairness, when water gets under the paint, it can cause oxidation that does the same thing.
In the shop, most AR bearings are treated in place in the side plates, so paint creep is an issue there. But at home I can treat them in or out of the side plate and paint creep is not an issue I worry about in my home shop.
So you will not find any CX at our rod and reel shop. We are not allowed to use it. We have to use products recommended by the brands- allowed by the brands, which in my opinion do not have the advanced corrosion protection characteristics, and don't last as long as a lubricant. (My personal opinion) This means more regular maintenance, while CX can last a couple seasons without reapplication.
So I can only use CX on my personal reels at home, and I have no paint flaking issues.
Alan Tani recommends CX. I recommend CX as a personal recommendation, not a shop recommendation. It is even recommended for fishing reels by CX website. So it is a matter of choice what any person chooses for their reels at home. Corrosion X passes every test I can throw at it which is why I use it at home and on my fishing buddy's reels, especially those used in saltwater.
For the record... I also have TSI at home and I rarely if ever use it. Most of the time I reach for CX.
CX maintains viscosity no matter what the temperature. We hear about AR bearings failing in low temperature times of the year or geographic locations which are cold. Some greases will thicken as temps lower which is another reason to avoid grease in AR bearings. It will act like glue, especially as temps drop and causes AR failures, not because anything is wrong with the AR, but because the wrong lubricant was used on it leading to the failure in colder temps.
Corrosion X will NOT do this. We can count on CX to maintain constant viscosity even in freezing temperatures, and this alone is in part what makes corrosion X such a great product for AR bearings. It will not cause an AR to seize up at low temps.
But, since it has a great light viscosity to begin with because it is a true synthetic, makes it ideal for AR bearings because it stays on the metal parts, case and needle bearings, and does not dry out, and does not fade away, nor does it break down and separate like some lubricants do and keeps a nice vapor thin coating on metal parts protecting them from rust and keeps on lubricating long after other lesser oils disappear. This product is a polar bonding lubricant that stays in place while others can move off places needing lubrication and corrosion prevention.
And CX meets the U.S. Navy and U.S. military corrosion specs: MIL-PRF-81309G.
This being said, we can not use it in our shop because CX is accused of "penetrating" under painted surfaces and is said to creep under painted surfaces causing some paints to flake off. But in all fairness, when water gets under the paint, it can cause oxidation that does the same thing.
In the shop, most AR bearings are treated in place in the side plates, so paint creep is an issue there. But at home I can treat them in or out of the side plate and paint creep is not an issue I worry about in my home shop.
So you will not find any CX at our rod and reel shop. We are not allowed to use it. We have to use products recommended by the brands- allowed by the brands, which in my opinion do not have the advanced corrosion protection characteristics, and don't last as long as a lubricant. (My personal opinion) This means more regular maintenance, while CX can last a couple seasons without reapplication.
So I can only use CX on my personal reels at home, and I have no paint flaking issues.
Alan Tani recommends CX. I recommend CX as a personal recommendation, not a shop recommendation. It is even recommended for fishing reels by CX website. So it is a matter of choice what any person chooses for their reels at home. Corrosion X passes every test I can throw at it which is why I use it at home and on my fishing buddy's reels, especially those used in saltwater.
For the record... I also have TSI at home and I rarely if ever use it. Most of the time I reach for CX.
Why is there a concerted effort of hate? And why is it allowed?
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Re: Roller clutch issues?
No-one is here to argue with you... Period... Many of us don't have the time or care to be honest...ShimanoFan wrote: ↑Mon May 20, 2019 12:36 pm
Here is what the legendary Alan Tani has to say:
[/u][/b] Light oil or a very light grease/oil blend[/u][/b]. Reinstall the rollers. Insert a shaft and test. In the engaged state they should not slip under heavy load.
I could go on and on, but I think some just want to argue with me rather than face the facts!
Argue with them! To me, it is set in stone and should be an established standard by now, especially on TT.
Your not an industry standard your not a representative, your a guy behind a computer making things over complicated, your just there needing to get validation through spewing copious amounts of "stuff" on the forum. You've just had a hard on to prove me wrong because the term grease was used in the same sentence as AR...
Just to let you know what 00 NLGI grease consistency is like. Because your "greases ain't greases".
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Re: Roller clutch issues?
When you realize that someone would've argued with everyone in this picture, you know to just give up...
This is the way.
Re: Roller clutch issues?
I was getting ready to buy some apple sauce, but then I realized I did not want to end up on some Foreign Due Diligence Report regarding Forum Outlaws.
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Re: Roller clutch issues?
Why is there a concerted effort of hate? And why is it allowed?
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Re: Roller clutch issues?
Is that how you think? You way over value yourself there. This has nothing to do with you who ever you might be. Not that important. But what is important is that a website dedicated to tackle should draw the line on what is permitted to be posted within their pages. Misinformation should not be allowed in my ever so humble opinion.
You gotta realize... well, maybe you don't, or don't care, but not only are there nearly 12,000 other members here who could be reading what you posted and following your bad advice, but there are potentially thousands of other people out there who are NOT members who can still read bad advice posted here. That is the important issue, not you. Take responsibility for your words is my whole point. Novice people out there don't know how much or how little of your advice to use or not. And it is precisely bad advice found on forums that created the "forum reels" failure scenarios in the first place all across America.
And by all means, you keep on using grease all you want to whatever rating value you find attached to it. Go for it!
Oh, and when I get a hard on, she's playboy centerfold quality... and I don't think you qualify. However, oil AND grease might apply!
Why is there a concerted effort of hate? And why is it allowed?
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Re: Roller clutch issues?
Seriously, you need to find another forum to haunt, your chit is getting old and stale. Be gone. Please dont post on my threads anymore.ShimanoFan wrote: ↑Mon May 20, 2019 3:37 pmIs that how you think? You way over value yourself there. This has nothing to do with you who ever you might be. Not that important. But what is important is that a website dedicated to tackle should draw the line on what is permitted to be posted within their pages. Misinformation should not be allowed in my ever so humble opinion.
You gotta realize... well, maybe you don't, or don't care, but not only are there nearly 12,000 other members here who could be reading what you posted and following your bad advice, but there are potentially thousands of other people out there who are NOT members who can still read bad advice posted here. That is the important issue, not you. Take responsibility for your words is my whole point. Novice people out there don't know how much or how little of your advice to use or not. And it is precisely bad advice found on forums that created the "forum reels" failure scenarios in the first place all across America.
And by all means, you keep on using grease all you want to whatever rating value you find attached to it. Go for it!
Oh, and when I get a hard on, she's playboy centerfold quality... and I don't think you qualify. However, oil AND grease might apply!
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Re: Roller clutch issues?
Don't mean to take the spotlight off you being your own little star! I know you want to shine brightly and be some super tuning god's gift to reels better than the brands can make, but maybe one day when you can grow some hair on that chin beyond peach fuzz you might learn something worthwhile to post. Until then, keep trying, and don't tell me what to do. Yer' not qualified.
You are barely old enough to drink beer.
Have zero professional education or professional training on reels.
And you don't work on spinning reels because you choose not to, and don't know how.
You are not approved, nor trained by any brands.
You work on reels on your kitchen table with cute little ducks under the reels in photos.
Clueless about brand tolerances or recommended lubricants and requirements needed.
Make it up as you go along. Endless narcissistic posts of hey everyone look at me! Looky at what I can do with a reel!
Looky what I just bought with 50 photos of endless nonsense ad nauseum...
No wonder you don't want any professionals posting on your crap.
By all means peach fuzz boy, step out there and swing away and show everyone what an expert you are at swapping out bearings, handles, spools, and knobs and call it super tuning! Laughable!
All you want are people who praise you and ooooh and aaah over your wonderful parts swapping career.
Sorry, don't mean to poop all over your parade so get out there and bang your gong peach fuzz kid! Toot your horn. No one else is going to do it for you. So give us more laughs out here. If you really knew what some thought of you, you might show people a little more respect than you are capable of.
Oh, and this is a discussion forum. They are NOT your threads. This forum is for nearly 12,000 members and not just you. You are showing the signs of a control freak who wants to control content and responses. And it is precisely people like you that kill forums and drive people off who just say screw it and don't post any more. You are proving to be counter productive to what forums are all about in the first place.
You are barely old enough to drink beer.
Have zero professional education or professional training on reels.
And you don't work on spinning reels because you choose not to, and don't know how.
You are not approved, nor trained by any brands.
You work on reels on your kitchen table with cute little ducks under the reels in photos.
Clueless about brand tolerances or recommended lubricants and requirements needed.
Make it up as you go along. Endless narcissistic posts of hey everyone look at me! Looky at what I can do with a reel!
Looky what I just bought with 50 photos of endless nonsense ad nauseum...
No wonder you don't want any professionals posting on your crap.
By all means peach fuzz boy, step out there and swing away and show everyone what an expert you are at swapping out bearings, handles, spools, and knobs and call it super tuning! Laughable!
All you want are people who praise you and ooooh and aaah over your wonderful parts swapping career.
Sorry, don't mean to poop all over your parade so get out there and bang your gong peach fuzz kid! Toot your horn. No one else is going to do it for you. So give us more laughs out here. If you really knew what some thought of you, you might show people a little more respect than you are capable of.
Oh, and this is a discussion forum. They are NOT your threads. This forum is for nearly 12,000 members and not just you. You are showing the signs of a control freak who wants to control content and responses. And it is precisely people like you that kill forums and drive people off who just say screw it and don't post any more. You are proving to be counter productive to what forums are all about in the first place.
Why is there a concerted effort of hate? And why is it allowed?
Re: Roller clutch issues?
This is the only sentence that has any merit in the entire diatribe. And unfortunatly, it's you speaking in the mirror. I think people just feel sorry for you at this point.ShimanoFan wrote: ↑Mon May 20, 2019 5:51 pmIf you really knew what some thought of you, you might show people a little more respect than you are capable of.