Bearings - cleaning and application of tungsten disulfide

[DougL58]

This is a photo and video description of cleaning reel bearings and applying Tungsten Disulfide. Tungsten Disulfide (WS2) is dry/solid lubricant powder and is considered one of the most lubricious substances in world.

First cleaning. I use a Dremel tool to spin clean bearings in Naphtha. Using mandrels to hold the inner race, the bearings and the outer race are free to spin. Here are some pics.

Bearing Tool Kit:


Mandrels:








I use plastic tubing of various sizes on the mandrel between it and the bearing to prevent the metal mandrel from contacting and scratching the bearing inner opening.

So, let's get some spools out and go to work...


Work Space (outdoors everyone):


Dremel Tool. It is easier to work with if you use a flex-shaft. (You"ll notice most everything is covered in the silver Tungsten Disulfide)


Naphtha. I use baby food jars.


Tungsten Disulfide.


Secret Sauce.


Video of cleaning and application of Tungsten Disulfide.
https://youtu.be/yaRoov7SfYY

I have applied the Ws2 as a dry powder into the bearing and spun to apply which works. I tried using an air brush to spray while spinning, mixing the Ws2 with Naphtha, but it is too difficult to keep the Ws2 in suspension. Using the Naphtha/Ws2 mixture, about 25% Ws2 to 75% Naphtha and spinning until dry applies a nice coat to the bearing.

Once the Naphtha is spun out and the bearing is dry you should see silver flecks spinning out from the bearing. This is the excess Ws2. Tungsten Disulfide will not stick to its self. You will get a single molecule thick coating of about 3 microns.

I run my bearings dry with this coating and get great performance. I reapply once a year. Occasionally when spinning a bearing all of the excess Ws2 does not get ejected and you do not get a smooth rotation on the bearing. If this happens, a quick spin back in the naphtha will clear it out.

I have worked with stock Daiwa bearings, removing the shields and it is amazing how much the quality varies. Some I clean and apply the Ws2 and get almost no improvement but some will perform as good as ABEC 7 bearings when the Ws2 is applied.

Hope you enjoyed and hopefully this helps those of you crazy enough to put in this much effort for little green fish.

Doug

[Bronzeye]

Thanks, Doug. I've been looking for this since you wrote that you'd put it up, and you delivered!

A person needs to be unusually serious about bearing performance to acquire mandrels and sleeves, but there is certainly a population of such folks on TT.

I like the idea of a lubricant that self-adjusts (to one molecule) the thickness it coats things with!

[reznor]

After apply ws2 are the bearings noiser?

[Pen3]

After apply ws2 are the bearings noiser?

Why would having a form of lubrication be noisier than no lubrication?

[DougL58]

After apply ws2 are the bearings noiser?

No, maybe a bit quieter. Smoother on the cast.

[reznor]

After apply ws2 are the bearings noiser?

No, maybe a bit quieter. Smoother on the cast.

Very impresive for a dry lube! Thanks for sharing

[Strewth]

Have you compared the performance of the same bearings with tungsten disulfide and TSI 320/321? I have found this lube to work the best of all others on SS bearings, especially in saltwater.

Great post as usual!

[DougL58]

Have you compared the performance of the same bearings with tungsten disulfide and TSI 320/321? I have found this lube to work the best of all others on SS bearings, especially in saltwater.

Great post as usual!

On SS bearings the TSI does work better, in my opinion. I don't do salt water so I stick to ceramic. For SS bearings I have not tried coating first with the Ws2 and then applying the TSI but that could be interesting. I apply the TSI in a similar process. Clean the bearing first, spinning on the Dremel in naphtha, then dipping into the TSI and spin dry.

[uljersey]

Good thorough post. Well done

It prompted me to look a bit farther into it. Here's a explanation of different application methods.
http://www.lowerfriction.com/howto.php

[cadman]

Doug,
Excellent tutorial and video. Just a few questions. I noticed on your video, that you mixed naphtha and Tungsten Disulfide in a small container. Was your ratio 75% naphtha to 25% Tungsten Disulfide ? Also I noticed that you submerged the bearing in the solution and let it spin correct?
Any other pointers? My last question is this. I know you will have some of your mixture left over. How do you store it? I know that naphtha flashes off quickly, which means that if not sealed tightly, it will evaporate. Thanks again for all of your helpful info on your process.

[DougL58]

cadman wrote:

Was your ratio 75% naphtha to 25% Tungsten Disulfide ? Yes

Also I noticed that you submerged the bearing in the solution and let it spin correct? Yes

Any other pointers? Once the Ws2 is applied I usually use a paper towel to cover it when I spin. In the begining you will have too much of the Ws2 in the bearing causing it to bind a bit. This also causes friction and heat. When the Naphtha drys out and the spinning bearing ejects the excess Ws2 it should free up. You should not have friction or heat once the bearing is clear. If you continue to feel heat, something is not clear. Spin clean in pure Naphtha and start over. In some cases the bearing never frees up indicating poor tolerances.

I know you will have some of your mixture left over. How do you store it? I know that naphtha flashes off quickly, which means that if not sealed tightly, it will evaporate. The Naphtha does evaporate and leaves the Tungsten Disulfied. Just add more Naphtha and mix, ready to go.

[cadman]

cadman wrote:

Was your ratio 75% naphtha to 25% Tungsten Disulfide ? Yes

Also I noticed that you submerged the bearing in the solution and let it spin correct? Yes

Any other pointers? Once the Ws2 is applied I usually use a paper towel to cover it when I spin. In the begining you will have too much of the Ws2 in the bearing causing it to bind a bit. This also causes friction and heat. When the Naphtha drys out and the spinning bearing ejects the excess Ws2 it should free up. You should not have friction or heat once the bearing is clear. If you continue to feel heat, something is not clear. Spin clean in pure Naphtha and start over. In some cases the bearing never frees up indicating poor tolerances.

I know you will have some of your mixture left over. How do you store it? I know that naphtha flashes off quickly, which means that if not sealed tightly, it will evaporate. The Naphtha does evaporate and leaves the Tungsten Disulfied. Just add more Naphtha and mix, ready to go.

Thank You Again for the in-depth answer. You have a PM from, me.