Lexa 100 vs curado 200 D

[dragon1]

By omission, kinda confirms my thoughts that the quick access side plate is not aluminum. That is what I thought as well when I touched/felt the material.

[LgMouthGambler]

Ok, just my 0.02. I think the whole aluminum vs graphite side plates thing is over exaggerated. Do you really think the aluminum side plate makes a difference? Do you know how strong graphite really is. Corrosion resistance, graphite is way better. As far as strength, its just as strong. The way they make this material its designed to stand up against the strength of metal. Think about this, the parts in your modern cars are now being made out of graphite to be lighter, and heat resistant. Now of coarse a fishing reel doesn't get close to the stress a car part may be put under, so what does that tell you? Knock graphite all you want, but I think the aluminum side plate is a selling point to get you to buy one. For years graphite has been used for sideplates with no issues, and the material is only being made stronger as the years and technology go by.

[dragon1]

Ok, just my 0.02. I think the whole aluminum vs graphite side plates thing is over exaggerated. Do you really think the aluminum side plate makes a difference? Do you know how strong graphite really is. Corrosion resistance, graphite is way better. As far as strength, its just as strong. The way they make this material its designed to stand up against the strength of metal. Think about this, the parts in your modern cars are now being made out of graphite to be lighter, and heat resistant. Now of coarse a fishing reel doesn't get close to the stress a car part may be put under, so what does that tell you? Knock graphite all you want, but I think the aluminum side plate is a selling point to get you to buy one. For years graphite has been used for sideplates with no issues, and the material is only being made stronger as the years and technology go by.

This is a debate that will never end...on the last couple of post, FWIW, jpd0144 and I were only confirming the material, nothing more, nothing less.

BTW, graphite is less rigid, cannot be machined to have the details and exacting fit as aluminum/metal, and can weigh as much or more than MG while still not being as strong. The "strong" in graphite/plastics comes from its ability to flex, and not from the strength of rigidness.

Also, if you think that a car with carbon/plastic/graphite chasis, motor block, cranks, etc., would withstand time as long as one made with the high grade metals...you are wrong. Carbon/polys are used to accentuate the looks of cars, and to save weight in places where a lot of torque is not being placed on the vehicle. Can you imagine what would happen to a carbon/plastic drive shaft and rear diff on a diesel truck putting out 500lb ft of torque?

It would be crazy to see a carbon/plastic engine hit its "flashpoint" as well!

[LgMouthGambler]

I was talking more of the lines of the intake manifolds and stuff that is not subject to friction heat. A plastic engine block? Lol. Though who knows with what's in store for the future. The molds of the plastic and the way its made can be just the same tolerance as the metal, and be cut/shaved to be if needed. Yes it may flex, but the frame of the reel is what really matters when it comes to what's going to take up the torque. Is a 10-15# Bass going to create enough force/torque to make a difference on the side plate? Probobly not, but everybody has their views on what really matters.

PS, graphite driveshafts are a real thing, they are carbon fiber wrapped for added strength.

Also, plastic engine flash point? I wanna see that video! The offgassing would be amazing to see!

[dragon1]

PS, graphite driveshafts are a real thing, they are carbon fiber wrapped for added strength.

Correct, but the core is metal.

And yeah, it would be a helluva of a fire, seeing what a burning metal engine looks like. An electrical + fuel leak fire in a plastic/carbon motor would be crazy + plastic/carbon hood, body, components, etc.

[LgMouthGambler]

PS, graphite driveshafts are a real thing, they are carbon fiber wrapped for added strength.

Correct, but the core is metal.

And yeah, it would be a helluva of a fire, seeing what a burning metal engine looks like. An electrical + fuel leak fire in a plastic/carbon motor would be crazy + plastic/carbon hood, body, components, etc.

You should see a car fire when they have magnesium wheels, oh boy!

[dragon1]

Indeed...not pretty when MG is burning.

Back on track...the Lexa 100 is not the same size as the CU 200D, but is proving that it is a very viable and quality offering from Daiwa.

Choose the size you prefer as both will likely serve you well for your intended techs. The CU 200 D will likely cost less, but will be probably be a used reel with no warranty support, while the Lexa 100 can be had new.

[Hogsticker2]

1) Curado 200 E
2) Lexa 100
3) Curado 100 D
This is the order I would rank the reels mentioned vs. current prices and money spent.

[dragon1]

1) Curado 200 E
2) Lexa 100
3) Curado 100 D
This is the order I would rank the reels mentioned vs. current prices and money spent.

I haven't handled the Lexa yet, but IMO, the CU D series is the best Shimano ever made for the Curado. The quality, fit and finish of a CU D surpasses the E and current CU G Series in my hands.

[LgMouthGambler]

D was awesome. Just hated that they strayed from the "green" the reel is known for. Everyone has that something they don't like, right?

[dragon1]

D was awesome. Just hated that they strayed from the "green" the reel is known for. Everyone has that something they don't like, right?

Wasn't the original CU color, red?

[LgMouthGambler]

Black, red, all metal colored on the original Bantams. But the green was the final trademark color after the Curado name was a full blown trademark. I have seen red Curados from way back, but I don't know if they were a JDM thing or not.

[Hogsticker2]

1) Curado 200 E
2) Lexa 100
3) Curado 100 D
This is the order I would rank the reels mentioned vs. current prices and money spent.

I haven't handled the Lexa yet, but IMO, the CU D series is the best Shimano ever made for the Curado. The quality, fit and finish of a CU D surpasses the E and current CU G Series in my hands.

I only owned my D for a short period of time before moving to the E. Maybe I should pick one up? Can you go into a little more detail as to why you prefer the D over the E?

[dragon1]

All aluminum frame, tighter feeling tolerances, IMO - has better overall components and fit & finish. And for me, better ergos for in my hands in the 100D platform (same platform used for CH 50 MG and original Scorpion 1000). CU 200 D series were just tougher and stronger overall than the E series...in the E Series, you would have to use a 300 E, to get close to a 200 D. In any case, a CU 300 E is essentially a little nicer CU 300 D.

This is my personal "feeling" of the finished product...to me, the E series just feels "cheapened" in fit and finish. Performance and power of the HEG on the E series 50 is not enough to offset the better overall fit, finish and quality of the 100D, IMO.

[jpd0144]

All aluminum frame, tighter feeling tolerances, IMO - has better overall components and fit & finish. And for me, better ergos for in my hands in the 100D platform (same platform used for CH 50 MG and original Scorpion 1000). CU 200 D series were just tougher and stronger overall than the E series...in the E Series, you would have to use a 300 E, to get close to a 200 D. In any case, a CU 300 E is essentially a little nicer CU 300 D.

This is my personal "feeling" of the finished product...to me, the E series just feels "cheapened" in fit and finish. Performance and power of the HEG on the E series 50 is not enough to offset the better overall fit, finish and quality of the 100D, IMO.

Couldnt have said it any better ! Spot on !