Calais 200DC smoothing out?

[jeb]

Don’t know the environment in which you use your reel, but if it were me I’d replace those gears, particularly in view of the cost of a DC reel. The Calcutta DC reel has brass alloy drive/pinion gears, and the parts together are under $20. The bearing supporting the pinion gear is only a few dollars. Like I said, this nearly $500 reel is now as smooth as it was out of the box four year ago--well worth the <$20 fix.

For the Calais 200DC the cost would be about the same. The parts I ordered for the Calcutta 200DC weren't indicated as available on the Shimano on-line parts listing, but I gave their Customer Service a call anyway. They had the parts. I think maybe their on-line parts service isn't quite up and fully running yet.

Good idea, thanks. I didn't realize how reasonable the parts are for these. Figured they'd be much more expensive, so was hesitant to just shotgun the parts. I just ordered the main and pinion gears for mine. Just under $30 to my door.

[Markanthony404]

I didn't realize how reasonable the parts are for these. Figured they'd be much more expensive, so was hesitant to just shotgun the parts. I just ordered the main and pinion gears for mine. Just under $30 to my door.

Shimano parts are inexpensive when compared to other reel companies, just another great reason to keep them in my rod locker. The gears for my Shimano Sustain & Calcutta TE were both around $10 each. Report back when your done with the install.

[bigfishslanger]

Thanks for the info! I never understood the antireverse bearing area and how to service.. Never been able to get one out. I am worried I would bend something ect. I figured buying new gears would help but I might need to get someone on here to take a look at it. I want to keep that reel in top shape. Maybe send it for supertuning and repair.

[buster 2900]

I’ve removed a couple of anti-reverse (roller clutch) bearings on Shimano reels. One was easy, the other not so much. They were both Calcutta TE 200 reels, a GT and a DC. I replaced the bearing on the GT reel. I cleaned the other. The bearing on the DC slid out under pressure of a thumb and finger, but the GT required the use of a 10mm nutdriver. This was dicey though successful, but the sort of thing that causes one to get up and get away from it for a bit before ruining something. The bearing had froze halfway out of the sideplate. One of the more difficult things I’ve maintained on a reel, since I knew only so much force should be applied, and it became very, very close to if not at that limit.

The new bearing has to be very carefully positioned when inserted in the side plate. So it's a good idea to take a close look at the position of the original bearing before removing it. It's recessed about a fingernail's width below the side plate, or even a bit less. If it protrudes from the side plate it will contact the key washer. If it's only a bit, it might not be noticeable. But it will score the key washer. If it's much at all, however, it will be very obvious. And just as obviously, it must go in correctly or the reel handle will turn backwards.

Not really recommending anyone try this without some significant experience in maintaining reels. It can be difficult. And that's the message, I guess. I did replace the roller clutch bearing on the 200GT. The major improvement on the DC reel resulted from replacement of the drive/pinion gears. Soaking the roller clutch bearing of the DC reel in naptha followed by adding a drop of oil had no noticeable effect. The bearing did spin freely though and didn't need replacement. But I suspect that spinning a q-tip soaked in alcohol or naphtha around the bearing while it was in place would have been as effective. It was after this that I replaced the drive/pinion gears on the 200DC. The reel was then as smooth as new.

[Markanthony404]

Thanks for the info! I never understood the antireverse bearing area and how to service.. Never been able to get one out. I am worried I would bend something ect. I figured buying new gears would help but I might need to get someone on here to take a look at it. I want to keep that reel in top shape. Maybe send it for supertuning and repair.

The easiest way to remove a roller bearing is to push them out with a deep socket, around 10-12 millimeter should work. Make sure it's touching the outside of the roller bearing and just lightly tap it out. As far as maintaining the roller bearings I think Shimano recommends leaving them alone, you can clean them with a Q-tip to remove some dirt but I would be cautious in adding extra lubrication that could make the bearing slip.

[Bantam1]

We have a special tool for removing/installing the anti reverse bearing in the Calais side plate. You can damage the side plate if not done correctly.

[buster 2900]

We have a special tool for removing/installing the anti reverse bearing in the Calais side plate. You can damage the side plate if not done correctly.

Bantam1—Yes, I not sure I’ll try to remove another anti-reverse bearing—barely got away with it on the last one. But does Shimano recommend using grease or oil on the anti-reverse bearing? I’m thinking the bearing is lightly greased on new Shimano reels.

[Bantam1]

We use a mix of our drag grease and our oil. The ratio is about 100:1 oil to grease. Then we lightly apply it to the rollers. The lube is simply there for corrosion resistance and to remove the "squeak" that the new dry bearings have. Too much oil or grease will cause the bearing to slip.

[buster 2900]

Thanks yet again, Bantam1, for your always sound advice.

[bigfishslanger]

Thanks for the info. I am going to get new drive gear and pinion and try that first.

[pro reel]

Gears in reels only hold a very small amount of grease. All excess grease is squeezed out and ends up in a pile beside the the pinion yoke. The correct amount of grease is a light coating down in the teeth. Now, when you think about how little grease is actually on the teeth, maybe you can understand the need for regular servicing. If you don't get your reels serviced at least once a year, or learn to do it yourself, then during the 2nd or 3rd year, depending on use, you will be running a dry set of gears that will wear out fast. Many people that you thier reels a lot do 2 or more services a year. Those folks will probably never wear out a set of gears. If your reel has a constant buzzy feel to it, then your pinion gear is most likley worn. The pinion gear spins 5 to 7 times for every turn of the main gear so it's the pinion that starts to wear first. You may be able to just replace it and have a smooth reel again.

[Bantam1]

With Shimano reels (especially the newer models) you should always replace the gears as a set. They do develop a wear pattern. Sure a new pinion may make it feel better for a short period of time, but it could wear down quicker than it should with an old main gear.

[jeb]

Gears in reels only hold a very small amount of grease. All excess grease is squeezed out and ends up in a pile beside the the pinion yoke. The correct amount of grease is a light coating down in the teeth. Now, when you think about how little grease is actually on the teeth, maybe you can understand the need for regular servicing. If you don't get your reels serviced at least once a year, or learn to do it yourself, then during the 2nd or 3rd year, depending on use, you will be running a dry set of gears that will wear out fast. Many people that you thier reels a lot do 2 or more services a year. Those folks will probably never wear out a set of gears.

I service my reels at least twice a year. I keep a log book. I use a toothbrush to get the grease down into the gear teeth and wipe away any excess. Yet the gears appear to be worn on my Calais DC. New ones should be here today, so I'll soon know for sure.

[buster 2900]

I service my reels at least twice a year. I keep a log book. I use a toothbrush to get the grease down into the gear teeth and wipe away any excess. Yet the gears appear to be worn on my Calais DC. New ones should be here today, so I'll soon know for sure.

On the Calcutta 200DC on which I replaced the drive/pinion gears, I could feel the excess play between the pinion and drive gears when I had the reel open. This was particularly true of the pinion gear where it interacts with the pinion bearing that is in the frame of the reel. The pinion gear is normally a tight fit here, and if there is play it does indicate excessive wear. If I turned the drive shaft, I could hear the buzz that is pretty much only felt when the reel is in use.

I took down and cleaned the inner parts of the reel after every couple of months of use in saltwater. The parts simply wore out.

[Bantam1]

Gears do wear out. The more you use them and the higher the load, the more wear they will have. The reels with X-Ship have less wear because of the better alignment of the gears under a load.