Sunline range, when to use what ?

[Jdmbassman]

Hi all,

I'm just about to buy and spool up a couple of reels to go with my latest Megabass purchases; X7 Diablo Fast Move and Extreme Mission. I will largely be using the Diablo Fast Move for Chatterbaits and the Extreme Mission for Bottom Contact Jigs and Swim Jigs.

That made me wonder what line to get. Sunline has a great range but what would I use when;
* Defier Armilo Nylon
* Shooter Defier Nylon Mono
* FC Sniper Fluro
* FC Sniper Green Fluro
* FC Shooter Fluro.

Thanks in advance

Matthew

[MRQturbo]

i prefer braid for bottom contact baits...add some sunline fx2 to your lineup if you go braid....but can't go wrong for fc sniper or shooter....

[Jdmbassman]

Has anyone used the FC Sniper Green Fluro ?

If so, is it worth the extra money over standard Sniper

[ctgalloway21]

Below is how I use the following


* Defier Armilo Nylon - designed for TOPWATER
* Shooter Defier Nylon Mono - designed for CRANKS
* FC Sniper Fluro - I USE FOR EVERYTHING ELSE
* FC Sniper Green Fluro - I PREFER CLEAR
* FC Shooter Fluro. - TOO STIFF FOR ME

[toddmc]

I've got about 20 freshwater combos that I use for various freshwater and bass tournament presentations. I'm not affiliated with Sunline, but I always seem to find one of their products that works for me in my 50-100 days a year that I manage to wet a line. I don't hesitate to throw other manufacturers "new and hot" products, but I somehow gravitate back to Sunline. Here's a list from small to big:
-2 UL/L Spinning Combos for "ultra finesse" bass and trout (4-5lb. Sniper)
-3 ML/Med Spinning Dropshot Finesse Combos (10-12lb. SX-1 braid with Sniper leader) I tried various manufacturer's new braids this last year, but I found many to be too soft and wrap around my guides, or they don't have reliable breaking strengths.
-Approximately 10 Med to Heavy Casting Combos for various reaction and bottom contact baits (10-20lb. Sniper) I find that Sniper has just the right amount of stretch for moving baits in my opinion. I use Sniper for vibrating jigs, swimjigs, buzzbaits, small swimbaits, jerkbaits, cranks, and almost any moving bait. Shooter is more sensitive for bottom contact baits and I will use it more when I think a bottom contact bait will be my primary weapon in a tournament. It is expensive and it doesn't stay as coil free as Sniper when I leave a rod in my boat's locker for long periods without use.
-1 Med Topwater Casting Combo for 1/4-1/2oz. (15lb. Armilo)
-2 Flip/Pitch Combos (16-25lb. Shooter for hard cover and 50-65lb. FX-2 for grass)
-2 Heavy/X Heavy Swimbait Combos for 2oz.+ (25-30lb. Supernatural in green)
I hope this helps. Feel free to ask questions about the qualities of any line.

[Jdmbassman]

-3 ML/Med Spinning Dropshot Finesse Combos (10-12lb. SX-1 braid with Sniper leader) I tried various manufacturer's new braids this last year, but I found many to be too soft and wrap around my guides,.

I'm really interested to hear why you use braid/Fluoro combo for your spinning gear ? I was using the Sunline SX1 / Sniper on my spinning combos but I was pursuaded to go straight Fluro.

Do you have any experience with Defier Armilo Nylon and when this would be used ?

[toddmc]

-3 ML/Med Spinning Dropshot Finesse Combos (10-12lb. SX-1 braid with Sniper leader) I tried various manufacturer's new braids this last year, but I found many to be too soft and wrap around my guides,.

I'm really interested to hear why you use braid/Fluoro combo for your spinning gear ? I was using the Sunline SX1 / Sniper on my spinning combos but I was pursuaded to go straight Fluro.

Do you have any experience with Defier Armilo Nylon and when this would be used ?

I got tired of the line twist and having to change my line so much with straight fluoro on my ML/Med spinning setups. They are all 2500 size Daiwa reels that have a large enough diameter spool, but you will still get line twist regularly with any fluoro. It gets old having to take your worm off and cast out and reel in your line between your fingers to get rid of the line twist. Braid is not perfect because it will still twist if you don't pay attention, but it twists a lot less. You need to cast out without your worm as soon as you see the first sign of twist with braid because it will end up in a big knot/mess very soon afterwards if you don't take the twist out. It is also very time consuming and expensive to have to replace fluoro on spinning setups every day of a tournament.
Unfortunately, light braid tends to float in the wind. You may have to step up your weight a little bit to help eliminate the bow in your line a little quicker. I have had great luck with 10lb. SX-1 in green, but it floats more in the wind and it is difficult to see. So, I have been fishing the 12lb. yellow lately for strike detection and because it floats in the wind a little less. I use a 6 foot 7lb. Sniper leader most of the time. I also color the first 10 or so feet of the braid with a black sharpie to camouflage the line. The last advantage of the braid is that you can cast it farther than fluoro. This allows me to stay farther away from fish in our clear Western waters.
The Shooter Defier mono is way too expensive in my opinion, but it does handle as well as any mono. The only thing that I fish mono for anymore is topwater, and the Armilo has much less stretch than regular mono making hooksets on long casts much easier. I have the Armilo on my topwater rod during the warmer months.

[Jdmbassman]

I got tired of the line twist and having to change my line so much with straight fluoro on my ML/Med spinning setups. They are all 2500 size Daiwa reels that have a large enough diameter spool, but you will still get line twist regularly with any fluoro. It gets old having to take your worm off and cast out and reel in your line between your fingers to get rid of the line twist. Braid is not perfect because it will still twist if you don't pay attention, but it twists a lot less. You need to cast out without your worm as soon as you see the first sign of twist with braid because it will end up in a big knot/mess very soon afterwards if you don't take the twist out. It is also very time consuming and expensive to have to replace fluoro on spinning setups every day of a tournament.
Unfortunately, light braid tends to float in the wind. You may have to step up your weight a little bit to help eliminate the bow in your line a little quicker. I have had great luck with 10lb. SX-1 in green, but it floats more in the wind and it is difficult to see. So, I have been fishing the 12lb. yellow lately for strike detection and because it floats in the wind a little less. I use a 6 foot 7lb. Sniper leader most of the time. I also color the first 10 or so feet of the braid with a black sharpie to camouflage the line. The last advantage of the braid is that you can cast it farther than fluoro. This allows me to stay farther away from fish in our clear Western waters.

i think I got it, Armilo for top water, sniper for general fishing and moving baits. Shooter comes into its own for bottom contact. A follow up question on your use of braid on spinning gear, is this problem only specific to spinning gear ? The reason I ask is that for the most of your baitcasting gear you stick to fluro unless going into heavy cover.

On a final note, what line lb would you recommend using for Chatterbaits and Swimjigs (3/8oz and 4.5" Swim Senko) in lightesh cover ? Also, what lb line for bottom contact jigs (3/8oz and Jackall Dart Hogs) in lightesh cover? Thanks for your help.

[toddmc]

I got tired of the line twist and having to change my line so much with straight fluoro on my ML/Med spinning setups. They are all 2500 size Daiwa reels that have a large enough diameter spool, but you will still get line twist regularly with any fluoro. It gets old having to take your worm off and cast out and reel in your line between your fingers to get rid of the line twist. Braid is not perfect because it will still twist if you don't pay attention, but it twists a lot less. You need to cast out without your worm as soon as you see the first sign of twist with braid because it will end up in a big knot/mess very soon afterwards if you don't take the twist out. It is also very time consuming and expensive to have to replace fluoro on spinning setups every day of a tournament.
Unfortunately, light braid tends to float in the wind. You may have to step up your weight a little bit to help eliminate the bow in your line a little quicker. I have had great luck with 10lb. SX-1 in green, but it floats more in the wind and it is difficult to see. So, I have been fishing the 12lb. yellow lately for strike detection and because it floats in the wind a little less. I use a 6 foot 7lb. Sniper leader most of the time. I also color the first 10 or so feet of the braid with a black sharpie to camouflage the line. The last advantage of the braid is that you can cast it farther than fluoro. This allows me to stay farther away from fish in our clear Western waters.

i think I got it, Armilo for top water, sniper for general fishing and moving baits. Shooter comes into its own for bottom contact. A follow up question on your use of braid on spinning gear, is this problem only specific to spinning gear ? The reason I ask is that for the most of your baitcasting gear you stick to fluro unless going into heavy cover.

On a final note, what line lb would you recommend using for Chatterbaits and Swimjigs (3/8oz and 4.5" Swim Senko) in lightesh cover ? Also, what lb line for bottom contact jigs (3/8oz and Jackall Dart Hogs) in lightesh cover? Thanks for your help.

The line twist is only on spinning gear with baits like the dropshot that cause more twist. All spinning reels will end up with line twist with these type of baits.
I fish a lot of 20lb. Sniper with vibrating jigs (chatterbaits) and swimjigs because I catch a lot of 5-10lb. largemouth on my home lakes and I don't think the fish seem to care with faster moving baits. I fish 16lb. Sniper on the small swimbaits like the 4.5 Swimming Senko because I fish them a little deeper during the middle of the day more often than skirted baits. The swimbaits are more natural for when the fish get a better look at your lure. I usually end up with 10lb. and casting gear when fishing jigs and Texas rigs in our clear Western waters because I think it gives me an advantage. I usually start heavier with the line and move to lighter tests if I'm struggling to get bites.

[Jdmbassman]

Thanks again for your help. Now I have moved to Madison, WI, I'm not sure how big the fish get.

With my old lakes, I would have said 5lb was the max and I caught a 4lb with a good fight on 7lb so I'm still pondering what line to go with. I don't have the luxury of having lots of rods, I've gone down the quality vs quantity approach.

I'm thinking;
17lb Sniper for Chatterbaits (Shimano Met DC)
15lb Sniper for the Jackall Tungsten Spade jig which supposedly can be used as a hybrid Swimjigs / bottom contact (Megabass IP68)
15lb Shooter for bottom contact jigs (Daiwa Zillion J Dream).

Sorry for the school boy questions but this is literally the first time I am doing this.

What do you think to my suggested approach?

[Pen3]

I would use the IP68 for chatterbait instead and especially if the Met DC is a HG or XG. I own over 10 different brands of chatterbaits and some give out massive resistance that you will want a reel with lots of torque, IP68 is one.

[toddmc]

Looks good. You will probably have to go a little lighter if you are fishing really clear water. The Shooter and Sniper come in 14, 16, and 20lb. Check the diameters to see what size is close to what you normally fish. Sunline fluoros tend to be smaller and closer to IGFA ratings than some line manufacturers.

[Jdmbassman]

Wow, Shooter is double the price of Sniper although it does come in an 18lb version that Sniper doesn't.

Is Shooter that much better for bottom contact ? Also, should you go less lb line for bottom contact as this is more noticible for this style of fishing ?

Sunline Shooter "Marionette Special" Fluoro 12lb 660yd $99.99
Sunline Shooter "Marionette Special" Fluoro 14lb 660yd $109.99
Sunline Shooter "Marionette Special" Fluoro 16lb 660yd $124.99
Sunline Shooter "Marionette Special" Fluoro 18lb 660yd $129.99
Sunline Shooter "Marionette Special" Fluoro 20lb 660yd

Sunline FC Sniper Fluoro 12lb 660yd $57.99 5+
Sunline FC Sniper Fluoro 14lb 660yd $57.99 5+
Sunline FC Sniper Fluoro 16lb 660yd $66.99 5+
Sunline FC Sniper Fluoro 20lb 660yd $66.99 5+

[Jdmbassman]

I would use the IP68 for chatterbait instead and especially if the Met DC is a HG or XG. I own over 10 different brands of chatterbaits and some give out massive resistance that you will want a reel with lots of torque, IP68 is one.

the Met DC I have is the 6:2:1 version, I also have the IP68 and I just bought a Jdream 6.3 so lots of options

[toddmc]

Wow, Shooter is double the price of Sniper although it does come in an 18lb version that Sniper doesn't.

Is Shooter that much better for bottom contact ? Also, should you go less lb line for bottom contact as this is more noticible for this style of fishing ?

Sunline Shooter "Marionette Special" Fluoro 12lb 660yd $99.99
Sunline Shooter "Marionette Special" Fluoro 14lb 660yd $109.99
Sunline Shooter "Marionette Special" Fluoro 16lb 660yd $124.99
Sunline Shooter "Marionette Special" Fluoro 18lb 660yd $129.99
Sunline Shooter "Marionette Special" Fluoro 20lb 660yd

Sunline FC Sniper Fluoro 12lb 660yd $57.99 5+
Sunline FC Sniper Fluoro 14lb 660yd $57.99 5+
Sunline FC Sniper Fluoro 16lb 660yd $66.99 5+
Sunline FC Sniper Fluoro 20lb 660yd $66.99 5+

I forgot about the 18lb. I have never fished it. You will have to try the Shooter and see for yourself. Some people say it's too stiff, but it transmits bites as well as any fluoro out there. I fished the 7lb. Shooter on a spinning dropshot setup for a while. It's hard to control on spinning reels, but the feel is so sweet when the bite is subtle. The key is to not fish weights at the bottom end of the rod rating that you are fishing.