Swimbait Line Brand You Use

[Ghost]

ust trying to get an idea brand of line and poundage you use for your swimbait fishing.

I'm here in Southern California and biggest lure I use would be a Huddleston 68 trout.

I was thinking of using 15-20lb P-line, would this be a good choice? I need the line to be an all around line, so copoly or mono. Not interested in fluorocarbon.

I'll be using a Shimano Cardiff 301 reel for swimbaits.

[BigG]

I use Sunline Defier Amilo 25# line. Smaller diameter than P-line 20# It's tough and as less stretch than most mono or copolymer.

[Jdmbiggie]

izorline xxx 15-25lbs and is wont hurt your wallet as much if you buy in big spool

[Boondock]

Love sunline mono for most swimbaits (20lb-25lb)

Sniper for flouro has treated me well also (20lb)

[GARRIGA]

I've thrown 68s on Tatsu 15 and 25 with the 25 giving me more confidence in the knots I tie. Little extra cushion should that hook set be too brutal or the dreaded bird's nest occurred. I've done some flipping with those 68s in gin clear water in the afternoon and gotten bit so I don't think the bass see the thicker line or does it impede the lures action. Plus having a little more cushion when those bigger fish hit is nice to have although on the 68s I've yet to have that happen. The 8s yes on the 25 and the line held up well. Just too much stretch on a long cast for my liking but I can remedy that by reeling through the bite to remove all the stretch before setting on her. Still working on that part.

[oops]

I used 20 to 30lb Big Game for swimbaits. It's readily available and affordable in bulk and has been a consistently good line for me for everything I've used it for. I never saw any need for a line that costs twice as much for a marginal increase in sensitivity for throwing swimbaits since detecting bites is not an issue.

[GARRIGA]

One technique I discovered by accident where fluoro comes in handy is flipping a Hudd 68 on full slack line. Out one day casting and noticed a deep hole near shore I couldn't work any other way but flipping it. On the first drop on full slack I could feel bites but not expecting it I didn't set the hook. First time I realized what others were mentioning about detecting bites due to fluoro's density. On the third flip I hooked a big fish but lost on the first headshake as it bolted to the surface at my feet and jumped out of the water. Went back next chance I could and landed a two-three pounder. After that no more bites so either they were onto me or moved on. Stopped bass fishing afterwards so haven't tried it but will this season. We have lots of lakes that are construction pits liked in with steep walls near shore. I just need a fluoro with less stretch so I can set the hook better. Some spots require the weedless 68 to work effectively and being shore bound puts a limit on rigs I can carry.

[Toadslayer72]

Samurai main line/P-Line CXX as leader material. I love and use it on everything except the Deps 250 and the 10" Triple Trout. It's nice to have that solid hookset at greater distances on a jig hook bait like the 68. It's real nice too if you go with the weedless 68 for pitching into places you normally would with a jig. Brushpiles and laydowns are the only reason I have a weedless 68 as I don't fish any lakes with weeds. I feel very confident setting the hook in thick stuff and muscling the fish out.