Micros for a Swimbait Rod?

[craigrbns]

Pretty sure I know this wont be a problem already, but figured Id ask some experts before I started ordering components...!!!

Is there any reason not to use micros on a 7'6" to 8' rod that will be used to throw 2-4 ounce lures for large pike and some saltwater species such as cobia or king mackerel on occasion - and possibly doing some trolling? I know passing knots for leaders can be an issue, but Ill be using steel or titanium leaders pretty much 100% of the time. Are their any strength concerns Im unaware of for using micros on bigger fish? Unless someone points out something Im not aware of, Id like to keep some weight off of the end of the rod and go with titanium framed # 4 micros as opposed to having bulky double footed guides all the way to the tip. Any recommendation for stripper and bumper guide sizes on this micro set up? Im thinking a double footed # 8 stripper and double footed #6 bumper - then micros the rest of the way. As usual, thanks in advance! - Craig

[5bites]

No reason not to use them. Theoretically they should be more durable for big fish and heavy lures since they sit low and have less leverage to bend. I like starting with a 6fly then a 4 or two and 3's on out. I'm not passing knots though so 4's might apply better for you.I don't see the need for a big butt guide. You didn't say but you hinted to a spiral wrap with the bumper? I personally would use a 4 bumper. The closer the line is to the blank the straighter shot the line has to the bottom of the blank. All the bumper does is keep the line off the blank. This is all just my opinion. Others may have a better idea but this is how I say I'd do it without actually being able to see it in person.

[btune]

I have a 7'9" St Croix swimbait rod with micro guides and it casts and works well! Spiral wrapped of course. I used #5 fly guides for both bottom guide and bumper. As long as the line stays off the blank I think it will work fine and you can tape some on and try. Of course this rod is "only" rated to about 4 ounces but I would guess it will handle more pretty easy. I try to use the smallest that will work down to 3.5 which is about as small as I can manage! If you have an issue with the setup all you will need to do is cut them off and start over. I do NOT use any leader with this setup.

[Mattman]

No reason not to use them. Unless of course they are too small to pass your line and/or knots.

[craigrbns]

Thanks for the input guys! That is exactly what I was thinking. I'll be spiral wrapping, which you already figured out. Just wanted to make sure I wasnt doing something that would cost me later before I started building. Ill take the advice and go with the smaller bumper and stripper guides as well. I wont be passing any knots - Ill be using wire/titanium leaders all the time with this set up, so micros it is! Thanks again! - Craig

[5bites]

Awesome. Post pics!

[Alex D]

They should fine. What type and size line are you using?

I ask because upper test mono (25#) can develop memory that causes it to not pass as easily thru the smaller guides.

Size your stripper based on your reel. I'm guessing you are using a larger spooled, round reel. If so, you are on track thinking with a larger stripper - just for the height the ring provides. You already have a small guide on the reel. You could also consider using a small DF spinning guide - like one of the old "spin/cast" style guides. This would get the ring up to get a straighter line path but allow a small stripper ring.

Just a thought. Looks a little different, but you might like the results.

[craigrbns]

Planning on using 20-25# Yozuri Hybrid most of the time, but Ive used it through some other micros before with no problem. May possibly use some braid up to 60#'s at most, but mono will see the majority of the action. I'm still deciding on the reel to put with the rod - either a Curado 300 to save some $'s on the new purchase, or a Calcutta TE 300 (my preference) if I can find one for the right price.

[fshn4lmt]

Just a heads up-I built a couple Shikari Flip sticks a couple months ago,and I used the Fuji Heavy Duty Micro's.I like the guides,but after I was done with the rod I realized that Revolver/spiral/bumper methods are not for the Heavy Duty Micro's.The Heavy Duty Frame Fuji's are angled forward,like the K frames.....BUT!,and here is where the problem lies........the Heavy Duty micro's insert is heavy on the outside and almost non existent on the inside of the guide.No big deal right?......wrong,if you wrap them on top,the line is always in contact with the alconite insert.The problem is when you spiral wrap them (like I did) and the rod loads up -your line rubs on the steel ring the insert is in,and not much on the alconite.Now I have to cut the fionsh off,and rewrap regular Kframe micro's from the first guide passed the end of my spiral down.
Dont spiral/simple spiral the Heavy Duty's!!!!!!!!!!!
Live and learn.
Matt/Fshn4lmt

[jimmyb]

The problem is when you spiral wrap them (like I did) and the rod loads up -your line rubs on the steel ring the insert is in,and not much on the alconite.

try to snap a pic before you cut them off! might be helpful for others to see exactly what you are talking about

[PainInTheBass]

Is that a limitation of the micros or of the specific guide frame you used?

[fshn4lmt]

This is specific to the fuji heavy duty micro's.The regular K frames and atc ringlocks are fine.Just trust me on this one,and dont spiral or simple spiral heavy duty fuji's.I would take a pic if I could,but i dont think you would be able to see it.If you taped some on a blank and loaded it........you would see exactly where the line rubs the guide collar,and not the alconite.