Correct spiral wrapping?
Correct spiral wrapping?
Hello men, I've read a ton of info about acid rods but haven't found a little detail.
How do you know when the spiral wrapping is done well?
i.e. if I'm doing the spriral using 4 guides (0º;60º;120º;180º), and there are not sharp line transitions, is it correct? or the line must touch each guide in the base of this 4 guides or somewhere else?
Thanks!
How do you know when the spiral wrapping is done well?
i.e. if I'm doing the spriral using 4 guides (0º;60º;120º;180º), and there are not sharp line transitions, is it correct? or the line must touch each guide in the base of this 4 guides or somewhere else?
Thanks!
- Mattman
- TT Gear Crew
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Re: Correct spiral wrapping?
I used to play with my set ups quite a bit testing casting distance, pitching, etc to make sure I was getting optimum conditions. As I gained more experience I found the features that always seemed to coincide with good performance.
I use a different spiral configuration so my ideal conditions may be different than yours.
I'm looking for a smooth line flow. Both on a loaded and unloaded rod. I'm also looking for the line to be touching the bottom or the top of the guide ring as much as possible. (in relation to the guide foot, not the ground) I look for the butt guide to have the line off the guide ring as much as possible.
As with most things in building, experience is your best guide.
I use a different spiral configuration so my ideal conditions may be different than yours.
I'm looking for a smooth line flow. Both on a loaded and unloaded rod. I'm also looking for the line to be touching the bottom or the top of the guide ring as much as possible. (in relation to the guide foot, not the ground) I look for the butt guide to have the line off the guide ring as much as possible.
As with most things in building, experience is your best guide.
Matt Davis
Otterods-High performance fishing rods
Otterods-High performance fishing rods
Re: Correct spiral wrapping?
Hello Matt, thank you for your reply.
This morning I found a configuration with very gradual transitions, but the line does not touch the 4th guide, it goes through the middle and there is no way to move this guide in order to be touched on the top. The 2 bumpers are touched just on the bottom and the stripper on the top.
Do you think if I use bigger bumpers the problem could be solved?
This morning I found a configuration with very gradual transitions, but the line does not touch the 4th guide, it goes through the middle and there is no way to move this guide in order to be touched on the top. The 2 bumpers are touched just on the bottom and the stripper on the top.
Do you think if I use bigger bumpers the problem could be solved?
Last edited by centurion on Sun Sep 18, 2011 11:24 am, edited 1 time in total.
- Mattman
- TT Gear Crew
- Posts: 2911
- Joined: Sun Apr 24, 2005 5:26 am
- Location: Fergus Falls, MN - Otterods - Hand Crafted High Performance Fishing Rods
- Contact:
Re: Correct spiral wrapping?
If you've got a guide that isn't being touched, you're just fine.
Matt Davis
Otterods-High performance fishing rods
Otterods-High performance fishing rods
Re: Correct spiral wrapping?
Then, should I remove this guide or it has some function that I'm not considering?Mattman wrote:If you've got a guide that isn't being touched, you're just fine.
Re: Correct spiral wrapping?
So why even have that guide there if the line doesn't come into contact with it?
- Mattman
- TT Gear Crew
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- Joined: Sun Apr 24, 2005 5:26 am
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Re: Correct spiral wrapping?
At some point during a heavy load, odds are that line will touch. It may not during normal casting and moderate flexing, but under a heavy load it may.
It could also be that you have more than enough guides on the rod.
If your static testing and guide spacing indicate you should have a guide there, I'd put a guide there. If your line isn't touching during normal conditions, that's fine. Probably better than fine. But at some point when the load goes down the blank and flexes thru that area, line should wind up touching the guide and distributing the load.
It could also be that you have more than enough guides on the rod.
If your static testing and guide spacing indicate you should have a guide there, I'd put a guide there. If your line isn't touching during normal conditions, that's fine. Probably better than fine. But at some point when the load goes down the blank and flexes thru that area, line should wind up touching the guide and distributing the load.
Matt Davis
Otterods-High performance fishing rods
Otterods-High performance fishing rods
- PainInTheBass
- Senior Angler
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- Joined: Mon Feb 28, 2011 2:56 am
Re: Correct spiral wrapping?
This man knows of what he speaks.Mattman wrote:At some point during a heavy load, odds are that line will touch. It may not during normal casting and moderate flexing, but under a heavy load it may.
It could also be that you have more than enough guides on the rod.
If your static testing and guide spacing indicate you should have a guide there, I'd put a guide there. If your line isn't touching during normal conditions, that's fine. Probably better than fine. But at some point when the load goes down the blank and flexes thru that area, line should wind up touching the guide and distributing the load.
My fishing antics @ paininthebass.blogspot.com
Re: Correct spiral wrapping?
I have rods done with three methods, Forhan, O'Quinn and now the bumper spiral. All three methods will work well when properly executed (correct number, spacing). I used to spend hours testing a set up and what I found was most rods are pretty foregiving and will work with most setups. I do feel the spiral is best and the bumper is the quickest and easiest to do and works very well. My point is play with the setup until you get what you like but don't worry if it does do what you wanted just rewrap and go on! I do think mini guides are an improvement as well.
Re: Correct spiral wrapping?
Yes, it's a big luck to have one of the best rodbuilders helping us so kindly. Of course, in this forum we also have others fantastic rodbuilders whose help is very apreciated. I save much time because of that.PainInTheBass wrote:This man knows of what he speaks.Mattman wrote:At some point during a heavy load, odds are that line will touch. It may not during normal casting and moderate flexing, but under a heavy load it may.
It could also be that you have more than enough guides on the rod.
If your static testing and guide spacing indicate you should have a guide there, I'd put a guide there. If your line isn't touching during normal conditions, that's fine. Probably better than fine. But at some point when the load goes down the blank and flexes thru that area, line should wind up touching the guide and distributing the load.
It's good to know that most rods are foregiving and not go crazy for minor details, thanks!btune wrote:I have rods done with three methods, Forhan, O'Quinn and now the bumper spiral. All three methods will work well when properly executed (correct number, spacing). I used to spend hours testing a set up and what I found was most rods are pretty foregiving and will work with most setups. I do feel the spiral is best and the bumper is the quickest and easiest to do and works very well. My point is play with the setup until you get what you like but don't worry if it does do what you wanted just rewrap and go on! I do think mini guides are an improvement as well.
I'm trying with 2 bumpers because I'm using micros and want to have the line as far as possible from the blank with smooth transitions... if finally don't works well, I'll do the simple spiral.