Experience with Seeker S Glass or MHX Blend?

[BucketHunter]

Ok it's showdown time.
3 rod custom series, around 7, 7'6, 8. Could go up to 2 inches shorter on some or all, to achieve optimal results.
These rods will be dedicated cranking rods, one I see as squarebill, one as all purpose (incl lipless) , and one as deep flex cranking.
I would like these rods to be versatile if possible, and I am scared that the S Glass will limit that.
Thoughts on Seeker vs MHX? Don't be afraid to throw out another suggestion.
As info, I fish mainly great lakes, so length is a big factor in covering water with bomb casts.

Bonus questions!

1)Handle length? I think shorter on at least the shorter one, or two rods, with a nice long handle on the third long one.

2)EVA or Cork? Cork adds a little weight for balance? Thoughts?

3)Micros all the way up, or do I need a bigger stripper guide? I will likely only crank Flouro on at least the two long rods.

4)Spiral wrap?

[Mattman]

Thoughts on Seeker vs MHX?

That’s an apples vs oranges question. The two are very different and not really something to compare together.

In my opinion, you either like glass or you don’t.

I do consider glass the least versatile material.

1)Handle length? I think shorter on at least the shorter one, or two rods, with a nice long handle on the third long one.

What ever helps your balance. Unless you have a specific length you prefer. Or a specific way of using the rod, i.e. tucking the butt under your armpit.

2)EVA or Cork? Cork adds a little weight for balance? Thoughts?

The difference is minimal at best. I’d rather use the material I like the best and have to add back the insignificant amount of weight than pick a material just because it’s a gram or two lighter.

3)Micros all the way up, or do I need a bigger stripper guide? I will likely only crank Flouro on at least the two long rods.

I prefer a larger stripper. I typically have 3 guide sizes on my casting rods.

4)Spiral wrap?

No other way to build a casting rod as far as I’m concerned.

[Tokugawa]

Ok it's showdown time.
3 rod custom series, around 7, 7'6, 8. Could go up to 2 inches shorter on some or all, to achieve optimal results.
These rods will be dedicated cranking rods, one I see as squarebill, one as all purpose (incl lipless) , and one as deep flex cranking.
I would like these rods to be versatile if possible, and I am scared that the S Glass will limit that.
Thoughts on Seeker vs MHX? Don't be afraid to throw out another suggestion.
As info, I fish mainly great lakes, so length is a big factor in covering water with bomb casts.

If you like glass, the S-glass will be versatile enough with trebled hard baits. Forget about contact baits...so it depends on your definition of versatility.

Bonus questions!

1)Handle length? I think shorter on at least the shorter one, or two rods, with a nice long handle on the third long one.

2)EVA or Cork? Cork adds a little weight for balance? Thoughts?

3)Micros all the way up, or do I need a bigger stripper guide? I will likely only crank Flouro on at least the two long rods.

4)Spiral wrap?

1. About 10"...longer if you like to tuck like Mattman said.

2. Both...either...your preference

3. Micros

4. Of course

[BucketHunter]

It may be apples and oranges, but what would you eat?
I don't ever plan on fishing contact baits with them, but a big spinnerbait, small swimbait, with the long rod, spinner baits/swimjigs with the shorty, etc. could all be in the cards.
I won't often rig rods away from my intended purpose, but i'd like to have the ability to really hammer down a pattern with a couple of similar options on tourney day.

[cjtoad]

MHX all the way, not a big glass fan. I've built half a dozen rods on glass over the years and never liked a one of them. The MHX CB blanks have some of the best crankbait actions of any blank out there, IMO. A couple other blanks that you might want to check out are the Phenix composite-x blanks and the St. Croix moderate action blanks. Of the three I like the MHX the best the Phenix's are a little to fast for my liking and the St. Croix are a tad on the slower side. All depends on what you like for actions.

[Mattman]

It may be apples and oranges, but what would you eat?

Neither. I can't stand glass and I'll never own an MHX.

[jimmyb]

I can't stand glass .

ditto!

[Tokugawa]

It may be apples and oranges, but what would you eat?
I don't ever plan on fishing contact baits with them, but a big spinnerbait, small swimbait, with the long rod, spinner baits/swimjigs with the shorty, etc. could all be in the cards.

Those would be fine on a glass rod...if you like them. I happen to like them...as you can tell some folks don't.

[grub_man]

Take a look at Swampland's Rich Forhan Legacy Elite series. All three rods are covered, 726, 765, and 808. A little trimming to tune, and you are good to go. All are rolled by Seeker using S-glass to Swampland's specs. I currently have a 765 in the shop chopped down to 7', and really like it in the shop. We'll see how well I like it as cranking time rolls around.

Handle length is all personal preference.

The ODs at the butt on the Seekers and RFLEs are so large, the choice won't make much difference at all. If I recall, the total weight of the EVA split grip including butt cap I put on my RFLE was 11g. The rear grip (at reel seat) alone weighed over 13g before reaming. Cork might save a gram or two like Matt mentioned.

Micros all on top all 3s or 4s. For a spiral, start with a larger butt guide.

I love spiral wrapped rods, but go with all on top for cranking rods. Either way will result in a great rod.

[Rovic]

It may be apples and oranges, but what would you eat?

Neither. I can't stand glass and I'll never own an MHX.

Is there a reason for the dislike of the MHX line? I would like to know.

[Snyder Rods]

I would have two or three larger transition guides for the first two or three... in case you ever want to grab the line between the reel and first guide, the higher guides will make it easier. The weight difference in that area will have no noticeable impact.

Cork might be more sensitive, which you don't need for this technique. EVA might be easier to hold onto when wet. Most people won't notice a difference either way.

Glass VS. Graphite: Glass might help you land 3 more fish out of 100. Important in a tournament where ounces count. For recreational fishing, it really does not matter - use whatever you like. Honestly, glass is overated. The graphite might be more enjoyable to use for small swimbaits because it is lighter.

I don't use MHX only because my supplier does not carry them. There is nothing wrong with them and I think they are a good bang-for-the buck for the consumer.

[dragger]

A lot of great info already said, but I'm going to go against that grain and say I like Seeker Glass rods. I love the soft action and I like the taper and how they pull on fish during a fight. They really shine there. True, glass is bulky and minimally sensitive, but it is a joy to fight fish on and I cast further with the load of the rod. I use them mostly for treble hooked baits, but have used them for contact baits with braid and have no complaints. A lot of my big topwater baits and paddle tail swimbaits are tossed on them too. Again, because I like the way they load up and the way they handle a fish say if you are fishing lighter line for bigger fish.

I have no idea what the two blanks are that I own, they were bought at a tackle store closing and were unlabeled, but for the price I paid, they have been nothing but a joy to fish with. I find graphite rods being too stiff and poor at casting most baits, but the sensitivity and weight is the real upside there.

As far as grips, both full 12" rear grips for me. I double dip a lot with larger baits and saltwater and crankbaits and feel a shorter handle would limit my casting distance and form and battling with a fish. I use hypalon because it is durable as all hell and fairly priced. AGAIN, I don't mind the weight and want a durable rod. It all depends on what you want really. I'm not a fan of split grips really or EVA.

If I had to choose between an apple and an orange, I'd eat the apple.

[KlingerNOK]

I'm shocked at all the glass hatin'! For general purpose cranking I don't think there's anything better! Sure, it's a little heavier and not as sensitive but it is just so much more fun to fish with. It's been a few years since I fished with rod built on the Seeker blank, but I remember it being a very enjoyable, great feeling rod. I have a couple custom glass Lami's that I'd much rather fish with than my Loomis CB rods(which I believe the MHX blends are modeled after).

[fshn4lmt]

First off,you mention 3 entirely different rods,and three different techniques.They sound similar,but they are not.Everyone has their own opinion,and they are certainly entitled to it........here is mine.
1.Seeker bs706s I LOVE this blank,light as heck,fast tip,forgiving like S glass should be.It does squarebill and shallow cranks well,up to 12 foot divers.It also is killer with a sammy and braid.Iprefer to cut this blank down to 6ft9.Not Good for deep divers,they tend to overload this rod.
2.Lamiglas bmb841E alot like the seeker,just a little slower tip,best rattletrap rod I have ver used,and cranks up to 12 foot divers again-does a good job with sammys/spooks also.
3.Deep divers are in a league by themselves,I have personally been using a Phenix composite x12,I like it.I prefer Glass but have yet to find a 7-8 foot glass blank that behaves like the old black and gold daiwa L&T 701mrgb s glass rods that were superb deep crankers.A little heavy,but action was spot on.I have built a couple mhx 8ft blands that were 8ft,and they were also impressive.
Handle length is personal preference,10 inches is great most of the time,but 9 is fine on a 6ft9 seeker,for roll casting and twitching sammy's.10 for traps,deep divers,unless you want it in your armpit.Ideally,on a deep diving stick-the butt of your rod should be right under your booby with the tip of your rod a couple inches off the water.I personally dont like rods with anything longer than 10 inch handles,unless its a swimbait,or c-rig rod.
Guide preferrence is up to you,alconites of your choosing should be the bottom,and sic gunsmokes are better,and titanium sics would be the best.Whether you choose micro's is up top you.I dont have a preference myself.

[fshn4lmt]

First off,you mention 3 entirely different rods,and three different techniques.They sound similar,but they are not.Everyone has their own opinion,and they are certainly entitled to it........here is mine.
1.Seeker bs706s I LOVE this blank,light as heck,fast tip,forgiving like S glass should be.It does squarebill and shallow cranks well,up to 12 foot divers.It also is killer with a sammy and braid.Iprefer to cut this blank down to 6ft9.Not Good for deep divers,they tend to overload this rod.
2.Lamiglas bmb841E alot like the seeker,just a little slower tip,best rattletrap rod I have ver used,and cranks up to 12 foot divers again-does a good job with sammys/spooks also.
3.Deep divers are in a league by themselves,I have personally been using a Phenix composite x12,I like it.I prefer Glass but have yet to find a 7-8 foot glass blank that behaves like the old black and gold daiwa L&T 701mrgb s glass rods that were superb deep crankers.A little heavy,but action was spot on.I have built a couple mhx 8ft blands that were 8ft,and they were also impressive.
Handle length is personal preference,10 inches is great most of the time,but 9 is fine on a 6ft9 seeker,for roll casting and twitching sammy's.10 for traps,deep divers,unless you want it in your armpit.Ideally,on a deep diving stick-the butt of your rod should be right under your booby with the tip of your rod a couple inches off the water.I personally dont like rods with anything longer than 10 inch handles,unless its a swimbait,or c-rig rod.
Guide preferrence is up to you,alconites of your choosing should be the bottom,and sic gunsmokes are better,and titanium sics would be the best.Whether you choose micro's is up top you.I dont have a preference myself.
I have been working with hypalon more lately.....and I like it alot.Better than eva,and cork has gotten rediculous pricewise,and quality is way down the last several years.
I also have some old shikari blanks that wre popping rods in 8feet.I am not infront of them but I believe they are P804's.They are graphite,but are slow,and parabolic.I will wrap them up before ledge fishing,and put a review up.
Hope this helps,Fshn4lmt