Thinking about making a ultralight casting rod, need help

[kinniyoubi]

Hi yall,

I am starting to get into ultralight baitcasting and initially wanted to get a pre-build rod from MajorCraft (Speedstyle / MS-X) but after reading up here alittle and watching tons of rod building video I'm leaning towards building a rod.

I am already unsure how to choose a pre-build rod so I am hoping you guys can help with narrowing down the blank choice. I will try to give as much information as possible to help with the selection. As for my budget, I would not want to limit myself too much so I would not place a budget, keeping the cost lower would definitely be better.

I am a shorter guy at 5'5" so I would prefer a shorter rod, somewhere in the 6 ~ 6'4" range. The rod will be paired with a XT 1000. I want to be able to cast 1/16oz lures with ease, 20~25yards (not sure if I am hoping for too much), and also be able to cast down too 1/32oz. Not sure if the species of fish is something so consider when choosing a blank but it will be bass.

I am unsure about power and action, so if anyone does BFS / ultralight baitcast. It would be awesome if you could chime in

The lures I will be using most of the time would be crankbaits like minnows at 1/16oz. The reason why I want to be able to cast down to 1/32oz is for soft plastic and maybe small jighead flies.

for the guide and seat of the reel, it seems like the "go-to" is fuji. Is there any other brands you would recommend me to look into? When building the rod, is there any different technique / anything to look out for you would use for keeping the weight down.

Thank you!

[IlliniDawg01]

Finding a casting reel that can throw lures that small (especially with a rod that short) a significant distance will be challenging.

UL rods are the most difficult to build, so you will want to take your time and don't get frustrated if your wraps pop loose. Take your time pulling the tag ends through. If your pull to hard you can snap the blank.

One piece reel seats are the easiest to get right, specifically the Fuji ECS if you like that one. A non-split rear grip is easier as well.

I highly recommend the Stainless Steel Fuji K Alconite belly guides. Best bang for your buck imo and pretty easy to wrap with little to no prep required. With a thin UL blank, rubber tubing rings are probably the easiest way to hold guides when you start the wraps.

DaveJ

[IlliniDawg01]

This would probably be the blank I would suggest.

Black Matrix 6' UL
http://www.mudhole.com/AMSJ720-B?quantity=1?quantity=1

There is also a 6'6" L version you could consider.

DaveJ

[kinniyoubi]

This would probably be the blank I would suggest.

Black Matrix 6' UL
http://www.mudhole.com/AMSJ720-B?quantity=1?quantity=1

There is also a 6'6" L version you could consider.

DaveJ

Thank you for the suggestion! Do you know of other more popular UL casting blank that people usually build on? (maybe something lighter?) Would like to take a look into different options aswell. Non split grips actually look pretty nice but I might be more adventurous and do split instead.

Why isit that building a UL rod is more difficult compared to a standard casting rod? Isit because of the thin blank + small casting guides? Or the use of a different wrapping technique?

Also, for the placement of the reel seat. I've read that you want the rod's (with the reel in place) balancing point slightly forward from the reel. (Not sure if there is an ideal setup for ultralight/BFS) But I've also read that the placement is up to personal preference. What would your advice me for someone that isnt particularly picky?

[zodiak311]

Not the advice you'll probably want to hear, but I would definitely suggest using some ultralight rods or at least handling some before throwing down cash for your own build.
I use to think that I wanted a crisp, fast action tip, but now find myself leaning towards softer actions. Choosing the perfect BFS rod is tricky, I am always in search of "the one," and i've been searching for years.

Major craft really does makes great rods for the money. I have a Speedstyle, Volkey, Go Emotion, N-One and they are all very impressive. Don't know if I could have a custom built for the price I paid for them.

This past year I had two 3-piece travel BFS casting customs built for me, one on an MHX blank, and the other on a St Croix. Once I got both blanks, the St Croix was far superior in sensitivity, and the blank was thinner, not to mention more expensive as well.

I actually utilized spinning reel seats for both casting customs.

Cal's recent review on the St Croix, mentions that Fuji now has a casting reel seat that is much thinner in diameter, which is something you might want to look into.

I say if your going to go custom for a BFS rod, the less components you have on it, the lighter it will be, then balance won't be a big Issue. My rod builder sure got a big headache trying to put a bunch of tiny guides, on a super thin blank.

Hope this helps. Good luck!

[kinniyoubi]

Not the advice you'll probably want to hear, but I would definitely suggest using some ultralight rods or at least handling some before throwing down cash for your own build.
I use to think that I wanted a crisp, fast action tip, but now find myself leaning towards softer actions. Choosing the perfect BFS rod is tricky, I am always in search of "the one," and i've been searching for years.

Major craft really does makes great rods for the money. I have a Speedstyle, Volkey, Go Emotion, N-One and they are all very impressive. Don't know if I could have a custom built for the price I paid for them.

This past year I had two 3-piece travel BFS casting customs built for me, one on an MHX blank, and the other on a St Croix. Once I got both blanks, the St Croix was far superior in sensitivity, and the blank was thinner, not to mention more expensive as well.

I actually utilized spinning reel seats for both casting customs.

Cal's recent review on the St Croix, mentions that Fuji now has a casting reel seat that is much thinner in diameter, which is something you might want to look into.

I say if your going to go custom for a BFS rod, the less components you have on it, the lighter it will be, then balance won't be a big Issue. My rod builder sure got a big headache trying to put a bunch of tiny guides, on a super thin blank.

Hope this helps. Good luck!

Thank you for the advice, i know where you're coming from. I actually have 2 ultralight rods at home but both are made for spinning gear. I have not use em as I prefer using a casting rod. I might take them out tomorrow and see how they handle. Since we are talking about rod only, the way the ultralight spinning rod perform will be no different to a casting rod right? (assuming the blanks are identical)

When you say using a spinning seat for your casting rod, do you mean those without a trigger? Do you think there is any advantage to using those or isit personal preference? I cant image myself using a casting rod without a trigger (though i have not tried it yet) I might mount my baitcast reel on the spinning rod to test it out when im back.

[-Boris-]

This past year I had two 3-piece travel BFS casting customs built for me, one on an MHX blank, and the other on a St Croix. Once I got both blanks, the St Croix was far superior in sensitivity, and the blank was thinner, not to mention more expensive as well.

Which one did you build up?

At least I build up a St.Croix 3S66L2, a 3S60ULF2 and a MHX 841-3 as a baitcaster - and for real ul-baits, like 2" trailer at a 1/16 jighead, the 3S60UL2 has the best performance.

Up to 1/8oz plus a 2-2,5" trailer I would prefer the UL-St.Croix. Above 3/16oz plus trailer the other ones work better. In this case I prefer the MHX, because it seems to be crisper.

[kinniyoubi]

I've read tons of good things about the K2 from Phenix, How do you think the Mirage would compare to the Matrix?

[Mattman]

Not the advice you'll probably want to hear, but I would definitely suggest using some ultralight rods or at least handling some before throwing down cash for your own build.

Not only will I echo that comment, I'll add another...

Do not make your dream build your first build. There is a big learning curve with rod building and you'll figure out a lot of the things that you like and dislike in your first build. A few more in your follow up builds. I highly recommend doing a couple basic rods to get thru your learning curve before you start chasing your ideal build.

[kinniyoubi]

Not the advice you'll probably want to hear, but I would definitely suggest using some ultralight rods or at least handling some before throwing down cash for your own build.

Not only will I echo that comment, I'll add another...

Do not make your dream build your first build. There is a big learning curve with rod building and you'll figure out a lot of the things that you like and dislike in your first build. A few more in your follow up builds. I highly recommend doing a couple basic rods to get thru your learning curve before you start chasing your ideal build.

I do agree with you completely. I know as a beginner, I do not have a preference in the type of baitcasting style, and spending tons of money right off the bat would be a waste as I might hate the rod after 2 months of using it and trying out other rods.

I am currently thinking of going a route where I get a decent blank and guides, nothing too fancy BUT I definitely want to try spiral wrapping as it seems really interesting to do, though I am unsure if I am getting ahead of myself.

I am currently thinking of getting these for my first rod build though I would still like some input in the blank department

Blank: Phenix Mirage 6'1" | 1/32 - 1/8| 2 piece

Guides: as recommended by IlliniDawg01: Stainless Steel Fuji K Alconite belly guides

reel seat: would like some recommendation on something light

grip / material: split grip done with cork

Do you think I should get a cheaper blank like the Matrix suggested or is the current parts "alright"?

Thank you!

[IlliniDawg01]

Yes, UL rods are tougher to build because of small guides, small diameter blanks that are very flexible, and higher risk of breakage.

I suggested the Matrix blank because I think they are good (not great) affordable all around blanks that are more durable than most while not being super thin.

My very first custom (outside of the one from the mudhole class) was a Matrix M 7' blank with a split foam grip, Minima reel seat, and spiral wrapped K guides. It didn't turn out perfect, but is still very nice and is my favorite rod for square bills and jerk baits.

Definitely listen to Mattman. He is one of the best builders on here (IMO second only to SavaCS who is incredible but doesn't really spend much time on here) and will give you very sound advice.

DaveJ

[Hobie-Wan Kenobi]

I told you some about my Mirage UL rod I built in another thread. I can say that rod is very durable. I have no fear of my rod breaking. I've caught pike up to 28in on it with some vicious under the boat surges and the rod stood up fine.

Its almost like the cheap Eagle Claw yellow glass noodle rods but way more crisp and sensitive. The Eagle Claw would flail around during the cast. The Mirage loads up in a similar fashion as the Eagle Claw but then launches the lure in a crisp manner. The rod comes to rest fairly quick.

I used the Aero Spinning Reel Seat



Bend of the rod.

[kinniyoubi]

Yes, UL rods are tougher to build because of small guides, small diameter blanks that are very flexible, and higher risk of breakage.

I suggested the Matrix blank because I think they are good (not great) affordable all around blanks that are more durable than most while not being super thin.

My very first custom (outside of the one from the mudhole class) was a Matrix M 7' blank with a split foam grip, Minima reel seat, and spiral wrapped K guides. It didn't turn out perfect, but is still very nice and is my favorite rod for square bills and jerk baits.

Definitely listen to Mattman. He is one of the best builders on here (IMO second only to SavaCS who is incredible but doesn't really spend much time on here) and will give you very sound advice.

DaveJ

Ahh I understand, since the Matrix isnt too thin it would be easier for a beginner to wrap on. Yes, I am definitely taking all the advice you guys are giving and is still reading up on previous questions asked about custom BFS rods posted before.

I told you some about my Mirage UL rod I built in another thread. I can say that rod is very durable. I have no fear of my rod breaking. I've caught pike up to 28in on it with some vicious under the boat surges and the rod stood up fine.

Yes! Which was why I wanted some opinions on the Mirage compared to the Matrix suggested. Rod seems awesome! What are your thoughts on using a spinning reel seat instead? What were the reasons why you got it instead of a conventional baitcast reel?

My current rod is a MajorCraft BassPara (BPC-662M) paired up with a XT 1000 and I was using a 9gram lure today. I noticed that my wrist gets fatigue really quickly. It doesnt get fatigue because of throwing but more towards cranking the lure in while twitching. Hopefully the rod that i'll be building will be alot lighter. It might have been the length of the rod, as it is pretty long, my hand was in an awkward position while pointing the rod downwards and cranking.

[zodiak311]

Yes, UL rods are tougher to build because of small guides, small diameter blanks that are very flexible, and higher risk of breakage.

I suggested the Matrix blank because I think they are good (not great) affordable all around blanks that are more durable than most while not being super thin.

My very first custom (outside of the one from the mudhole class) was a Matrix M 7' blank with a split foam grip, Minima reel seat, and spiral wrapped K guides. It didn't turn out perfect, but is still very nice and is my favorite rod for square bills and jerk baits.

Definitely listen to Mattman. He is one of the best builders on here (IMO second only to SavaCS who is incredible but doesn't really spend much time on here) and will give you very sound advice.

DaveJ

Ahh I understand, since the Matrix isnt too thin it would be easier for a beginner to wrap on. Yes, I am definitely taking all the advice you guys are giving and is still reading up on previous questions asked about custom BFS rods posted before.

I told you some about my Mirage UL rod I built in another thread. I can say that rod is very durable. I have no fear of my rod breaking. I've caught pike up to 28in on it with some vicious under the boat surges and the rod stood up fine.

Yes! Which was why I wanted some opinions on the Mirage compared to the Matrix suggested. Rod seems awesome! What are your thoughts on using a spinning reel seat instead? What were the reasons why you got it instead of a conventional baitcast reel?

My current rod is a MajorCraft BassPara (BPC-662M) paired up with a XT 1000 and I was using a 9gram lure today. I noticed that my wrist gets fatigue really quickly. It doesnt get fatigue because of throwing but more towards cranking the lure in while twitching. Hopefully the rod that i'll be building will be alot lighter. It might have been the length of the rod, as it is pretty long, my hand was in an awkward position while pointing the rod downwards and cranking.

What crank bait were you throwing? The type of crank and how much resistance it exerts is a big factor, vs the weight of the lure.

[kinniyoubi]

What crank bait were you throwing? The type of crank and how much resistance it exerts is a big factor, vs the weight of the lure.

It was a lipless crankbait so I dont think there is much resistance. I think it's either down to the way the rod was angled while I was twitching or the rod was heavy.