Redefining a Classic, the Lew’s BB1 Baitcaster

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Redefining a Classic, the Lew’s BB1 Baitcaster

Post by Cal » Tue Sep 10, 2013 12:04 am

Redefining a Classic, the Lew’s BB1 Baitcaster

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Introduction: Lew’s is one of the fastest growing brands in the freshwater market and with good reason, their reels deliver plenty of features at very reasonable prices. The BB1 is the heart of the Lew’s baitcasting lineup and it was a tall order to redesign this legendary reel. The original BB1 was a pioneering reel that really changed the perception of what a low profile baitcaster could, and should be. Decades later this new BB1 seeks to channel that same forward thinking and infuse modern day design and technology into a classic.

Complete Article: http://www.tackletour.com/reviewlewsbb1.html

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Re: Redefining a Classic, the Lew’s BB1 Baitcaster

Post by Fishingelbow » Tue Sep 10, 2013 3:14 am

Wow! 70 YARDS without breaking a sweat? With two brakes on? Are you sure? What rod and lure? Maybe you should run an article on your distance casting secret(s)!

><(((°>

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Re: Redefining a Classic, the Lew’s BB1 Baitcaster

Post by zenbassr » Thu Sep 12, 2013 3:17 am

Fishingelbow wrote:Wow! 70 YARDS without breaking a sweat? With two brakes on? Are you sure? What rod and lure?
x2

i'd be interested in a setup that allows me to cast 70yds effortlessly... details please!

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Re: Redefining a Classic, the Lew’s BB1 Baitcaster

Post by Gideon » Thu Sep 12, 2013 12:30 pm

zenbassr wrote:
Fishingelbow wrote:Wow! 70 YARDS without breaking a sweat? With two brakes on? Are you sure? What rod and lure?
x2

i'd be interested in a setup that allows me to cast 70yds effortlessly... details please!
Fritts, went over this in a video the guys put up from ICAST: http://www.tackletour.com/reviewicast13lews.html

I go down to one brake and I can cast 60-70 yards with my BB1 with a 1oz. fat Free Shad, but this isn't the longest casting reel, I can still do better with a Calais DC, and it sounds cooler too ;) the other reel that casts really well for me is the new Abu MGX, with a 1oz. bait and no wind you can just about empty the spool.

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Re: Redefining a Classic, the Lew’s BB1 Baitcaster

Post by zenbassr » Thu Sep 12, 2013 1:18 pm

Gideon wrote: Fritts, went over this in a video the guys put up from ICAST: http://www.tackletour.com/reviewicast13lews.html
with a 1oz bait, what you're saying seems realistic

OTOH, from the 0:30 mark in the vid when Fritts talks about the 2 main things he believes give the reel its long cast performance... not so sure about that.

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Re: Redefining a Classic, the Lew’s BB1 Baitcaster

Post by QUAKEnSHAKE » Thu Sep 12, 2013 1:26 pm

Every person on TT can cast 70yds easily just look at the threads about distance. Most get this distance with just 3/8 oz too and oh 65# braid.

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Re: Redefining a Classic, the Lew’s BB1 Baitcaster

Post by Zander » Sat Sep 14, 2013 3:12 pm

Sorry for the delayed reply guys. Has been a rough week, a close friend of mine passed away unexpectedly and just drove back from the service in Reno this evening.

On this subject, the key takeaway from this reel is that it is not just a good caster, but it is a good caster at this price point. Second don’t get obsessed with casting distance, maximum casting distance has many variables, with the reel just being one of them. Fritts says everyday anglers that have the BB1 reel dialed in should be able to hit 65yds., now I’m sure Fritts can do that but I don’t care how dialed in the reel is you better be one heck of a good caster to get that distance. Also distance doesn’t necessarily equate to more fish, yes with crankbaits you cover more water which is good in search mode but I’ve found that extra 10-20 yards doesn’t always equate to more bites, often times a more accurate cast is going to pay more dividends.

If you want maximum casting on the BB1, or any baitcaster for that matter, you want to dial the cast control down to the lowest level that you are comfortable with. For me that was two brakes on the BB1 in normal conditions and one with no wind and heavier baits. You also want to go with a reasonable weight line, I like cranking with 10-12lb. mono. There are a lot of people who like fishing fluorocarbon for that enhanced feel but I can cast better with mono and like the stretch in my line with cranks and ripbaits. Like a spinning reel the reel is going to cast better when it is filled properly. If it is filled too high then the line will rub against the edges reducing freespool, go too little and the line is wound tighter and not only doesn’t peel off the spool as nicely but requires more revolutions for the same distance line to come off the spool.

Lure weight absolutely makes a difference, in our tests we used a lot of 3/4oz. lipless cranks and 1oz. deep divers. If you are fishing small to medium sized shallow cranks accuracy really should be your priority. Ripbaits are a different animal, especially if you’re targeting stripers and in this application I went for max distance with baits like the Lucky Craft Pointer 128 (talk about a lure with an effortless cast).

Next think about friction, it robs casting distance. Friction on the spool, line, guides... it all adds up. So suffice to say traditional braids are not going to be your best option for max distance. The traditional spool tension setting is to adjust the tension so the lure drops slowly. This is my recommendation for general use. BUT if you want that maximum casting distance then you need to reduce that tension and trust your thumb. You also need to lay off the spool with your thumb and only feather it when absolutely necessary. This takes practice and trust me it’s not easy. I have been in a lot of boats where pros get 15+ yards on me with my own gear/setup.

Then you get to your catapult, your rod. If you want maximum casting distance then you need to go with a 7+ foot cranking stick. The rod that you see in a lot of the pictures in the article is an Edge 7 foot 8-14lb 3/16-1/2oz. rated stick but I threw baits up to 1oz. on it with no problem. This rod is a very good caster, though I still am not a fan of the spiral wrapped guides (Cal loves them). I also fished a Powell 8 foot cranking rod that is a glass/composite. When it comes to maximum distance I like a rod that has a long enough rear handle so I can get plenty of leverage with two handed casts. I used to fish a lot of 6’6” rods and over time I’ve gone longer and longer when it comes to casting rods designed for big cranks.

The bottom line, you need to dial the reel in to match how you fish. Reduce as much resistance and tension off the spool as you are comfortable with. But again don’t be obsessed with casting distance. What use is that ultra-long cast if you have to constantly deal with backlashes? Which also reduce casting distance by the way, once that line gets messed up or doesn’t lay properly on the spool casting distance is going to suffer.

Little (ok, a lot) long winded but hopefully it helps guys.
Tight Lines,
Z

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Re: Redefining a Classic, the Lew’s BB1 Baitcaster

Post by Fishingelbow » Sun Sep 15, 2013 12:24 am

Sorry to hear about your friend, Zander, and many thanks for taking the time to write such a detailed answer under those conditions.

I'm sure you'll "forgive" me for still being obsessed with distance, as I'm stuck on shore and any extra distance I can get is a godsend. As a matter of fact, most of the fish I catch in one of my favourite spots hit my lures at over 150 feet away; so you know I have to use braid to drive the hook home at that distance. Which brings me to a follow-up question: you say "traditional braids are not going to be your best option for max distance". What exactly do you mean by "traditional" braids, and how much distance would you guess is lost by using a modern braid like Sufix 382?

Again, heartfelt thanks and condolences.

><(((°>

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Re: Redefining a Classic, the Lew’s BB1 Baitcaster

Post by zenbassr » Sun Sep 15, 2013 1:15 am

my condolences to you and your friend's family, and thank you for taking the time to reply.

though i still think Fritts should stick to crankin' and let his reel guys discuss what's under the hood, the details you provided helped put the article in a much better context for me... much appreciated :)

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Re: Redefining a Classic, the Lew’s BB1 Baitcaster

Post by Zander » Sun Sep 15, 2013 4:46 am

Fishingelbow wrote:Sorry to hear about your friend, Zander, and many thanks for taking the time to write such a detailed answer under those conditions.

I'm sure you'll "forgive" me for still being obsessed with distance, as I'm stuck on shore and any extra distance I can get is a godsend. As a matter of fact, most of the fish I catch in one of my favourite spots hit my lures at over 150 feet away; so you know I have to use braid to drive the hook home at that distance. Which brings me to a follow-up question: you say "traditional braids are not going to be your best option for max distance". What exactly do you mean by "traditional" braids, and how much distance would you guess is lost by using a modern braid like Sufix 382?

Again, heartfelt thanks and condolences.

><(((°>
First, thanks for the kind words.

You bring up a good point, on the shore that extra few yds. can definitely make a difference, especially if you are trying to work from tough angles. Braid is definitely nice to get that feel from shore, but also a pain if you are fishing a bait that can easily get hung up. Using a fluro leader definitely helps. With some topwater baits from shore like frogs it is still my go to choice. Traditional braid would be braids with older weave patterns or fewer strands, these lines while very durable are not always round and create a lot of friction and also do not lay as cleanly on the spool. You can hear some braids going in and out of guides, especially recoils. Then you can hear and see the difference with braids that have more strands. It is not just the number of strands but the tightness of the weave. Sufix 382 has 8 fibers but is different than many other modern braids in that it incorporates two different materials, 7 traditional dyneema and 1 gore strand. I don't really have enough experience with this particular line to comment on too many specifics but the times I have used it for frogging I've felt it casted quite nicely. Again casting distance "loss" with a braid depends on a lot of factors, but if you compare apples to apples with the same setup with mono versus braid I would guess it is in the realm of sub 15%. Use what you are most comfortable with and if strength and sensitivity are your priority then I would also go braid and sacrifice that distance delta.

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Re: Redefining a Classic, the Lew’s BB1 Baitcaster

Post by Zander » Sun Sep 15, 2013 4:48 am

zenbassr wrote:my condolences to you and your friend's family, and thank you for taking the time to reply.

though i still think Fritts should stick to crankin' and let his reel guys discuss what's under the hood, the details you provided helped put the article in a much better context for me... much appreciated :)
Thanks very much for the kind words zenbassr.

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Re: Redefining a Classic, the Lew’s BB1 Baitcaster

Post by smalliesteve » Thu Oct 17, 2013 10:47 am

hahaha thank you mister Fritts.

Now can you explain to me how an anti-reverse bearing, which has NO connection to the spool on a cast, can affect casting distance. " It gives it more freespool" LMAO

I'm looking for some Daiwa Original corks. I hear they give you another 10 yds on the your casts, or you can just wear your hat backward and get 15!!

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