Alphas sv105

[chrisg_sdcf]

I have an alphas sv105 and I just can't seem to get it to cast well. I always read about how good they are which is why I bought one from Japan (used but looks basically new). I have read about the inductor sticking in some of them and some people changing the spring to a heavier spring so maybe that's my problem?

I've only tried throwing 3/8oz jerkbaits with it on a levante jerkbait special with 10lb fluorocarbon. The problem is if I throw on a fluid motion (not forcing the cast) it cast smooth but not very far. If I cast hard or "whip it" I get a birdsnest. If I lower the mag dial below the halfway mark I get a birdsnest. I set it up withcast control knob tightened until the spool stopped moving side to side but it was suggested to me to tighten it a little more. It seems like to get it to cast well I have to adjust the brakes and cast control to the point I lose a lot of distance. Does that sound like the problem people have with the inductor/weak spring or something else?

[chrisg_sdcf]

Separate question but would you take the tdz 103ml over the alphas sv105?

[spencerinstl]

viewtopic.php?t=71299&start=15

[chrisg_sdcf]

Thanks, I read through that. I don't think it's a line problem. I guess it could be the bearing needs to be flushed and oiled but I don't have a tool to get the shaft pin out so I can't do that yet. Could be the inductor thing too I guess. All I know is I don't have a problem with the steez sv tw, steez A, TD Ito, Fuego CT, Fuego 100hsl, tatula sv, or TD Ito but the sv105 is giving me trouble.

[QUAKEnSHAKE]

I have an alphas sv105 and I just can't seem to get it to cast well. I always read about how good they are which is why I bought one from Japan (used but looks basically new). I have read about the inductor sticking in some of them and some people changing the spring to a heavier spring so maybe that's my problem?

I've only tried throwing 3/8oz jerkbaits with it on a levante jerkbait special with 10lb fluorocarbon. The problem is if I throw on a fluid motion (not forcing the cast) it cast smooth but not very far. If I cast hard or "whip it" I get a birdsnest. If I lower the mag dial below the halfway mark I get a birdsnest. I set it up withcast control knob tightened until the spool stopped moving side to side but it was suggested to me to tighten it a little more. It seems like to get it to cast well I have to adjust the brakes and cast control to the point I lose a lot of distance. Does that sound like the problem people have with the inductor/weak spring or something else?

Pretty much the reason I dont use mine any longer. Tried new inductor stiffer spring Hedgehog bearings all for not. Wont be getting any SV spool again tatula sv issues as well. I have stock reels that cost less that out perform the 105sv. The best thing about the reel was the effortless retrieve feel.

[chrisg_sdcf]

I have an alphas sv105 and I just can't seem to get it to cast well. I always read about how good they are which is why I bought one from Japan (used but looks basically new). I have read about the inductor sticking in some of them and some people changing the spring to a heavier spring so maybe that's my problem?

I've only tried throwing 3/8oz jerkbaits with it on a levante jerkbait special with 10lb fluorocarbon. The problem is if I throw on a fluid motion (not forcing the cast) it cast smooth but not very far. If I cast hard or "whip it" I get a birdsnest. If I lower the mag dial below the halfway mark I get a birdsnest. I set it up withcast control knob tightened until the spool stopped moving side to side but it was suggested to me to tighten it a little more. It seems like to get it to cast well I have to adjust the brakes and cast control to the point I lose a lot of distance. Does that sound like the problem people have with the inductor/weak spring or something else?

Pretty much the reason I dont use mine any longer. Tried new inductor stiffer spring Hedgehog bearings all for not. Wont be getting any SV spool again tatula sv issues as well. I have stock reels that cost less that out perform the 105sv. The best thing about the reel was the effortless retrieve feel.

I have other sv reels that I like but I'll admit that most of them now have Zpi spools in them. My brothers tatula sv can cast as far as any of my reels and almost never gets overrun or birdsnest and it's stock (my brother keeps all his reels stock). It just doesn't feel as smooth as higher end reels to me but now that you can get them for $149 new it doesn't seem fair to expect it to be as smooth as $400+ reels.

The sv105 reel is very smooth, feels good in my hands, and I like the way it looks so I was hoping for an easy fix besides replacing it lol. Like maybe another spool or parts that would solve my problems.

Which stock reels did you like better?

[spencerinstl]

Thanks, I read through that. I don't think it's a line problem. I guess it could be the bearing needs to be flushed and oiled but I don't have a tool to get the shaft pin out so I can't do that yet. Could be the inductor thing too I guess. All I know is I don't have a problem with the steez sv tw, steez A, TD Ito, Fuego CT, Fuego 100hsl, tatula sv, or TD Ito but the sv105 is giving me trouble.

Send your reel to a repair shop to have it checked out, or you could try another alphas sv spool in that reel to check if it is a problem with the reel or spool. You could put your sol spool in the alphas and see if the problem goes away. I haven't had any problems with any of my alphas sv105 reels.

[chrisg_sdcf]

Thanks, I read through that. I don't think it's a line problem. I guess it could be the bearing needs to be flushed and oiled but I don't have a tool to get the shaft pin out so I can't do that yet. Could be the inductor thing too I guess. All I know is I don't have a problem with the steez sv tw, steez A, TD Ito, Fuego CT, Fuego 100hsl, tatula sv, or TD Ito but the sv105 is giving me trouble.

Send your reel to a repair shop to have it checked out, or you could try another alphas sv spool in that reel to check if it is a problem with the reel or spool. You could put your sol spool in the alphas and see if the problem goes away. I haven't had any problems with any of my alphas sv105 reels.

I'll try the Sol spool first. Thanks for the idea

[MountainMan 83]

I threw a R+ spring on my SV105 spool for shizs and gigs but before that, I never had a problem throwing lures. I'm not much of a finesse guy, so as you, I usually throw 3/8ths and up and it casts very effortlessly. Sounds like something is going on.

[chrisg_sdcf]

I threw a R+ spring on my SV105 spool for shizs and gigs but before that, I never had a problem throwing lures. I'm not much of a finesse guy, so as you, I usually throw 3/8ths and up and it casts very effortlessly. Sounds like something is going on.

How tight do you set your cast control knob and what is your usual be break setting?

[MountainMan 83]

I threw a R+ spring on my SV105 spool for shizs and gigs but before that, I never had a problem throwing lures. I'm not much of a finesse guy, so as you, I usually throw 3/8ths and up and it casts very effortlessly. Sounds like something is going on.

How tight do you set your cast control knob and what is your usual be break setting?

I'll have to get back to you tonight when I get home. I can't recall off the top of my head.

[poisonokie]

My sv105 really needed to be serviced from the factory. I upgraded the spool bearings to HH Air, cleaned and relubed the gears and worm shaft with SLP 104 grease, added a little oil to the pinion bearings because they were too stiff. I haven't had to update the sv ramp yet, but I have one waiting in case I ever have to. Now it's an awesome little reel.

If the inductor is sticking, you'll know because you won't backlash or get any distance, especially with lighter baits and when you take the spool out and test the inductor you'll see that it's stuck in the extended position. It won't fix itself, you have to twist it to get it to retract.

You should loosen the spool tension until you can detect a slight side-to-side knock in the spool and either tighten it ever so slightly or just leave it alone. In my experience with this reel it's best to leave the mag dial at 50% or higher as the spool is just a little wild by nature, so I wouldn't worry too much about where the mag dial is positioned as long as it's casting well. It should feel free and effortless on an easy roll cast to get surprisingly good distance, especially with 3/8ths.

IMHO, these reels are meant for weights 1/4-5/8ths and up on lighter lines like 10-20# braid or 8-10# fluoro on a ML-M rod or for pitching/skipping jigs with 16-18# line on a MH-H rod. As long as the inductor is functioning properly and your brakes are set up correctly, your baits should sail.

[chrisg_sdcf]

My sv105 really needed to be serviced from the factory. I upgraded the spool bearings to HH Air, cleaned and relubed the gears and worm shaft with SLP 104 grease, added a little oil to the pinion bearings because they were too stiff. I haven't had to update the sv ramp yet, but I have one waiting in case I ever have to. Now it's an awesome little reel.

If the inductor is sticking, you'll know because you won't backlash or get any distance, especially with lighter baits and when you take the spool out and test the inductor you'll see that it's stuck in the extended position. It won't fix itself, you have to twist it to get it to retract.

You should loosen the spool tension until you can detect a slight side-to-side knock in the spool and either tighten it ever so slightly or just leave it alone. In my experience with this reel it's best to leave the mag dial at 50% or higher as the spool is just a little wild by nature, so I wouldn't worry too much about where the mag dial is positioned as long as it's casting well. It should feel free and effortless on an easy roll cast to get surprisingly good distance, especially with 3/8ths.

IMHO, these reels are meant for weights 1/4-5/8ths and up on lighter lines like 10-20# braid or 8-10# fluoro on a ML-M rod or for pitching/skipping jigs with 16-18# line on a MH-H rod. As long as the inductor is functioning properly and your brakes are set up correctly, your baits should sail.

Maybe I'll hold onto it and send it to someone to take it apart and clean it up for me. I bought it for the lure/line weights you suggested and rod power you suggested so it would be nice to get it working right. I'll try to loosen up the spool tension a little bit and use the mag dial more. I don't want to give up on it just yet. I wish I had the guts to take it apart and clean/relube myself. I have no problem working on cars, motorcycles, boats, and guns but for some reason I just have a feeling I'm gonna screw up a reel.

[poisonokie]

I wish I had the guts to take it apart and clean/relube myself. I have no problem working on cars, motorcycles, boats, and guns but for some reason I just have a feeling I'm gonna screw up a reel.

It's really not that bad. At least it's not a spinning reel. Also, unless you get a spool pin remover and flush your spool bearings or get the white SV ramp to fix that inductor if it's sticking, nothing you do will improve your casting ease or distance, and neither of those things require disassembling the reel. Removing and reinstall the inductor can be tricky, but I won't go into that here. This will just make the reel smoother and more effortless to use while reeling.

Someone chime in if you see any glaring errors or omissions.

Have your schematic handy and maybe take a picture every few steps before you continue dismantling the reel. Also keep everything together in a Ziploc bag. Sometimes it's a good idea to take apart certain things with the reel or part inside a gallon Ziploc so you don't lose something if it goes flying, like a bearing retainer or e-clip. You don't have to completely tear it apart to grease the gears. You pretty much just:

A) Take off the handle (lock plate screw, lock plate, then nut, which is threaded left hand if it's a lefty) This requires a 10mm socket and a flat blade screwdriver. Put a piece of plastic like a Walmart sack between the socket and the nut so you don't scratch it and a strip of electrical tape over the blade of the screw driver so you don't mar the screw or accidentally scratch the lock plate.
!!! Watch for the washer between the handle and drag star, if there is one, as it likes to adhere to the handle and then fall off on the floor,

B) Take off the drag star,
!!! Watch for the washer under the drag star as it likes to adhere to the drag star. (This washer has two different sides. The rough side goes against the drag star.)

C) Take off the drag star clicker/drag spring washers. Try to keep it all together, but if you don't, the leaf springs should stack on each other like this: ( )
!!! Watch for the washer under the clicker as it likes to adhere to it and fall off later.

D) Now you should be looking at a bare driveshaft with a ball bearing sitting at the bottom inside the side plate. Unscrew the three frame screws (in this case the short one goes in the back), and pull the sideplate straight up off the driveshaft. Put a strip of electrical tape over the flat blade screwdriver before unscrewing the frame screws so you don't scratch the paint on the sideplate.
!!! Watch for the yoke springs on either side of the pinion gear as they like to adhere to the underside of the sideplate.
!!! Watch for the collar that rides inside the A/R clutch (roller bearing) if it comes out, the flat side goes up against the driveshaft bearing sitting on the A/R.

E) Pull the pinion and yoke off the posts the springs are sitting on. Pay attention to which side of the yoke was facing up.

F) Pull the main gear straight up off the drive shaft. This particular reel has a wet multi-washer drag stack that should stay together and drop out of the main gear in a single unit when you tip it into your hand. The keyed washer at the bottom may not fall out with the rest. You can push it out using a toothpick. Keep the drag stack together.

G) Now place the brass gears in a small cup (like a ramekin or salsa cup) with a couple of inches of white gas (Coleman fuel) Scrub the gear surfaces with a toothbrush. You can also drop any bearings or other metal parts you wish to flush/clean and relube in at this time. After swishing the parts around in the gas to release any dirt or grease, place it on a paper towel and allow it to dry. Reinstall the gears/yoke and apply a light coating of grease to the gears using a small paint brush. You may wish to add a little grease to the levelwind cogs at this time, as well as to the brown plastic spool shaft that runs through the pinion. Also lightly grease the inside of the drag star along the clicker teeth.

H) Now, reinstall the drag stack and reassemble the rest of the reel. When you put the side plate back on, look at it from underneath and make sure the spool shaft slides down inside the pinion. Alternatively, you can completely unscrew the cast control cap, pull out the spool shaft, and reinstall it after screwing down the side plate. Don't overtighten any screws or nuts.

[spencerinstl]

Maybe I'll hold onto it and send it to someone to take it apart and clean it up for me. I bought it for the lure/line weights you suggested and rod power you suggested so it would be nice to get it working right. I'll try to loosen up the spool tension a little bit and use the mag dial more. I don't want to give up on it just yet. I wish I had the guts to take it apart and clean/relube myself. I have no problem working on cars, motorcycles, boats, and guns but for some reason I just have a feeling I'm gonna screw up a reel.

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