Inshore casting setups
Inshore casting setups
What are you guys using for inshore casting setups? I am using a curado 200k with 72H poison adrena, and it feels a bit difficult to fight 10+ pound snook on. It takes 10-15 min to bring a decent one in, and I don't know if that indicates I should be using a heavier setup, or that's just how snook fishing is.
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- Platinum Angler
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Re: Inshore casting setups
while I don't have the salt water experience for inshore, we have similar for inshore casting for salmon in the great lakes.
I would consider trying to find a Curado 300E5
I would consider trying to find a Curado 300E5
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Re: Inshore casting setups
I was thinking about a 300K, but same ideaSteveSchmelzle wrote: ↑Mon Jun 06, 2022 6:23 pmwhile I don't have the salt water experience for inshore, we have similar for inshore casting for salmon in the great lakes.
I would consider trying to find a Curado 300E5
- Oktayne the Red
- Senior Angler
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Re: Inshore casting setups
I'd say that the time it takes to whup a fish is more about rod and line. Any modern 200-300 sized baitcaster should have no issues loading 20 or 30 lb braid and putting out enough drag to put it to the snook you're talking about. Locale or type of cover can also play into it. I don't really know anything about the rod you mentioned so it's hard to say, but maybe you just need some more backbone in the rod?
I have 2 rods I use for targeting thekind of fish you speak of. A Calcutta TE 200GT (12-15 lb mono or 20 lb braid, depends on my mood) on an old school Loomis MBR 843C IMX, and a Diawa Millionaire CV-Z 253 (15-17 lb mono or 20-30 lb braid) on a MBR 844C GLX. All 20 year old tackle that's still bulletproof. Conquest and Ryoga someday, but if that never happens, I'm good and grateful for what I got.
I have 2 rods I use for targeting thekind of fish you speak of. A Calcutta TE 200GT (12-15 lb mono or 20 lb braid, depends on my mood) on an old school Loomis MBR 843C IMX, and a Diawa Millionaire CV-Z 253 (15-17 lb mono or 20-30 lb braid) on a MBR 844C GLX. All 20 year old tackle that's still bulletproof. Conquest and Ryoga someday, but if that never happens, I'm good and grateful for what I got.
Re: Inshore casting setups
I agree that rod may be more important than reel if snook do not run far (line capacity issue).
However, I would look at rod length more than power. Especially if you wade fish where longer rods also provide longer casting distance. I would go 9 to 10 foot in rod length if the fish are regularly 10+ pound.
For inshore wade fishing in Scandinavia, 9’ to 9’6” rods are the norm and we only rarely get fish above 10 pounds.
Fishing from a boat or yak 9’ is OK and 10’ may be a bit too much, but from pier and standing on shore 9-10’, definitely.
However, I would look at rod length more than power. Especially if you wade fish where longer rods also provide longer casting distance. I would go 9 to 10 foot in rod length if the fish are regularly 10+ pound.
For inshore wade fishing in Scandinavia, 9’ to 9’6” rods are the norm and we only rarely get fish above 10 pounds.
Fishing from a boat or yak 9’ is OK and 10’ may be a bit too much, but from pier and standing on shore 9-10’, definitely.
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Re: Inshore casting setups
I agree.
The shortest of the inshore rods I use are 8'3".
9' is the sweet spot.
But I guess that's not going to work if your inshore fishing includes fishing around tight structure, mangroves, etc.
The shortest of the inshore rods I use are 8'3".
9' is the sweet spot.
But I guess that's not going to work if your inshore fishing includes fishing around tight structure, mangroves, etc.
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- doomtrprz71
- Elite Angler
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Re: Inshore casting setups
While I tend to focus on redfish, all of my inshore casting rods are 7'3 or shorter, getting a 10lb snook in in 10-15mins would be normal in my book. I even had my NFC neo cut down from 7'6 to 7'3 and it's perfect for gator trout and redfish.
- Oktayne the Red
- Senior Angler
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Re: Inshore casting setups
Wow, we got some pretty widely differing rod lengths going on here. Leaves me curious about everyone's locales/techniques. Like I see 7' as the go-to for the guys in the boats tossing plastic baits up in the mangroves, etc. My baitcasters are 7', but I'd prefer 7 1/2'. I go to 8' if I'm getting into live baits (or BIG plugs). Ocean side, at the piers or inlets, they start at 8'. I have a couple 10' pier meatsticks too. Old school.
Re: Inshore casting setups
I feel that at first I had a couple issues:
-the swimbaits I was using had awful hooks
-I was using a H power rod that did not stay loaded that well during the fight with the snook
I have a better hookup ratio with my MH Moderate fast crankbait rod. It stays loaded through the fish's jumps and changes of direction much better. Lately I have been having success on bomber Long A's.
-the swimbaits I was using had awful hooks
-I was using a H power rod that did not stay loaded that well during the fight with the snook
I have a better hookup ratio with my MH Moderate fast crankbait rod. It stays loaded through the fish's jumps and changes of direction much better. Lately I have been having success on bomber Long A's.
Re: Inshore casting setups
The rod I am using is a 72. I could see a longer rod being beneficial, though
Re: Inshore casting setups
My favorite inshore setup is a 7’ Med St Croix Legend Elite with a Metanium, 10 lb braid, and a 20-25lb floro leader, have got a few snook, but I primarily catch redfish on it
Re: Inshore casting setups
Russ when I took up snook fishing I powered down both rod and reel to match most of the fish I was catching to make it more fun. But once in a while I'd hook a fish that was just determined to go into a tree or bridge piling and a locked down drag and thumb on the spool wouldn't stop him. They can be very strong. Personally I'd use a fast tipped rod for accuracy with good backbone and a reel with 12-15 lbs of drag and braided line. 7' is fine since you aren't after distance.