Daiwa magnet swapping?
Daiwa magnet swapping?
I'm currently setting up a RinGA SSS for finesse, already broken down, cleaned, drag clicker and Roro spool installed. With that, this thing is seriously over braked for that sort of thing. For the heck of it, I pulled the side plate from my Millionaire CT and lo and behold, it's money! I could get a magnet assembly from plat for about $60 + shipping, but in the spirit of TT, I feel I can pull the magnets from a beater Sol I have lying around and swap them to the RinGa as I know it has weaker magnets being more finesse oriented. How feasible is a swap like this? My plan was to use a heat gun to remove the magnets and superglue them into place. Has anybody done anything like this before? Am I better off just chocking up the money for new parts to simplify it?
I'm completely comfortable going down either road. What's the advice of the TT members?
I'm completely comfortable going down either road. What's the advice of the TT members?
Re: Daiwa magnet swapping?
Wow Kool idea... following.
"It is like a finger pointing away to the Moon...don't concentrate on the finger, or you will miss all of that heavenly glory."
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Re: Daiwa magnet swapping?
I have a spare T3 palm plate that is just screaming for me to pull the magnets out of and put them in something else, but I don't know which reel I would want to put them in...
Re: Daiwa magnet swapping?
Give it a shot and see. Looking at the magnet assemblies between both the Millionaire CT and Ringa, the mags in the CT don't stick out as far. Going by the scale in my eyeballs, it looks to be about 0.5mm to 1mm different. That's probably why it feels over braked, the inductor is far in to the mag assembly. I think I may just buy the CT components. That way, I can keep the original Ringa parts on hand in case I take it down another path in the future. While I'm at it, I'd like to track down a Duralumin gear set from an Alphas 103, Ito, or the like to shave a little more weight. This guy currently tips the scale at 6.8oz (193g) as it is set up currently. The inner ring assembly should shave off a bit as well, seeing as the CT part is plastic and not aluminum like the Ringa. I know some don't care for aluminum gears, but this is for stream trout so it should be fine.adam lancia wrote: ↑Mon Aug 15, 2022 8:19 amI have a spare T3 palm plate that is just screaming for me to pull the magnets out of and put them in something else, but I don't know which reel I would want to put them in...
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Re: Daiwa magnet swapping?
I have a set of gears that will fit. Send a PM if interested and I'll send them your way.tincanary wrote: ↑Mon Aug 15, 2022 8:42 amGive it a shot and see. Looking at the magnet assemblies between both the Millionaire CT and Ringa, the mags in the CT don't stick out as far. Going by the scale in my eyeballs, it looks to be about 0.5mm to 1mm different. That's probably why it feels over braked, the inductor is far in to the mag assembly. I think I may just buy the CT components. That way, I can keep the original Ringa parts on hand in case I take it down another path in the future. While I'm at it, I'd like to track down a Duralumin gear set from an Alphas 103, Ito, or the like to shave a little more weight. This guy currently tips the scale at 6.8oz (193g) as it is set up currently. The inner ring assembly should shave off a bit as well, seeing as the CT part is plastic and not aluminum like the Ringa. I know some don't care for aluminum gears, but this is for stream trout so it should be fine.adam lancia wrote: ↑Mon Aug 15, 2022 8:19 amI have a spare T3 palm plate that is just screaming for me to pull the magnets out of and put them in something else, but I don't know which reel I would want to put them in...
Try not to let your mind wander. It is much too small to be outside unsupervised.
Re: Daiwa magnet swapping?
Success!
Here we can see the difference in magnets between Mag Z on the left and SV on the right. Note the difference in thickness. This is why I was over braked with a finesse spool. The magnets on the Ringa were simply too strong for such a light spool. We aren't walking guys, we ridin'!
Here are the CT magnets installed to the Ringa side plate. One caveat with this swap. The position of the brake doesn't resemble what's imprinted on the ring showing braking power. This is due to the way the outer magnet assembly is notched. On the Ringa, it's slightly off center whereas on the CT, it is not. No need to worry, the full range of braking is there, except the dial bottoms out at the second dot on the dial, and tops out at the Max position, not the dot below it like on the CT.
So now you may wonder, how does it cast? Great! Just as I'd expect a factory built finesse Daiwa to behave. With the CT magnets, I have the full range of braking and no more of the all or nothing I was experiencing with the factory Mag Z magnets. With the factory magnets, I couldn't go higher than 1/4 brake without it being choked off, now I can get to 3/4 with a similar effect. Over all, this was an easy swap, but I would advise you to have a decent pair of circlip pliers to remove the large ring that secures the beauty ring to the outer magnet assembly. You can remove it by other means, but with circlip pliers you squeeze and the whole thing separates rather easily.
After having completed this, it makes me wonder if others swapping Mag Z reels to BFS spools experience the same braking characteristics. If so, the Tatula SV magnets should be a drop-in replacement to get the brake behaving just how you want. I had fun doing this and I hope it opens another door into Daiwa modifications.
Here we can see the difference in magnets between Mag Z on the left and SV on the right. Note the difference in thickness. This is why I was over braked with a finesse spool. The magnets on the Ringa were simply too strong for such a light spool. We aren't walking guys, we ridin'!
Here are the CT magnets installed to the Ringa side plate. One caveat with this swap. The position of the brake doesn't resemble what's imprinted on the ring showing braking power. This is due to the way the outer magnet assembly is notched. On the Ringa, it's slightly off center whereas on the CT, it is not. No need to worry, the full range of braking is there, except the dial bottoms out at the second dot on the dial, and tops out at the Max position, not the dot below it like on the CT.
So now you may wonder, how does it cast? Great! Just as I'd expect a factory built finesse Daiwa to behave. With the CT magnets, I have the full range of braking and no more of the all or nothing I was experiencing with the factory Mag Z magnets. With the factory magnets, I couldn't go higher than 1/4 brake without it being choked off, now I can get to 3/4 with a similar effect. Over all, this was an easy swap, but I would advise you to have a decent pair of circlip pliers to remove the large ring that secures the beauty ring to the outer magnet assembly. You can remove it by other means, but with circlip pliers you squeeze and the whole thing separates rather easily.
After having completed this, it makes me wonder if others swapping Mag Z reels to BFS spools experience the same braking characteristics. If so, the Tatula SV magnets should be a drop-in replacement to get the brake behaving just how you want. I had fun doing this and I hope it opens another door into Daiwa modifications.
Re: Daiwa magnet swapping?
Did mag swap in my t3 with a OG Steez. It tamed my steez down with the MB spools. Mate the 1016 with 3d and steez brakes. Its insane can bomb a frog a mile. Lol