New to fly fishing

[Trout Slayer]

i just started normal fishing a couple years ago and now I want to learn the art of fly fishing. I recently learned to cast with my uncle's old cherrywood rod and now id like to find my own rod. I was looking at the Martin Complete Fly Fishing Combo and im wondering if this would be a good rod to learn on and catch 5-15 inch fish. Thanks

[Trout Slayer]

Anyone?

[davej]

TS it's tough to answer without a Budget your looking to stay within.. also would this rod be for local PA streams and small brooks or are you going to use it on bigger water..

[Trout Slayer]

Ponds brooks with the occasional lake fish sizes are ranging from 5-16 inches long dont have too much to spend

[Nickk]

I don't know anything about the Martin gear but I would recommend looking at Temple Forks, St. Croix,Sage(FLi, Launch series), Cabelas, and Bass Pro(White River) Combos if you must get a combo. Combos generally leave you with marginal quality line but a good line cost about $60.00. I'd recommend a 5 weight combo in a med-fast rod variety.

Here's a good starter rig
here

good luck and keep us posted

[M2arms]

If you really want to learn, get the best stick you can afford (i.e. st.croix, sage, temple fork, scott, fenwick). Packages are put together purely for your money and the Chinese profit margins. They aren't worth stringing your tomatoes to. To save a few $$ you can try building your own. This will save you 10-20% off list. Actually there are some great buys on blanks at places like HooknHackle.

Remember, unless you are trophy fishing and know how to use a drag and your palm, the reel is just a lineholder for your excess line and backing (don't skimp on backing. It does serve a purpose other than extra line to handle the hogs. It enlarges your spool diameter so you aren't peeling off a coil of slinky with every first use of the rod). You can get away with a $60 reel, but not a $60 rod.

With better equipment, your cast will improve incredibly. It will give you something to grow into and then exceed to faster/less forgiving sticks. A good rod will react more comfortably and allow you to cast more with less fatigue until your muscles get accustomed to their new job.

Michael

[davej]

I agree with buy the best set up you can...
I don't know about making my own though...

I started with a 5# and quickly found it very difficult (and way over kill) for my little brooks and streams.. I do uuse it on the Bigger Stretches for nymphing of the Upper Deleware and in really windy condition.. I would look at a 4# tops..

I would rather see you save up and buy a quality rod and reel... (with care you will have them forever... if you get intp the sport you will quicly outgrow the cheaper combos...

[Trout Slayer]

Well I think i might take a trip to my local sports store and see if they can outfit me with something. I really wish i could buy from bas pro and cabelas and all the bigger name brands but their arenone in or near where I live and shipping costs wayyyy too much. I am actualy thinking on getting a 7/8 rod as I find it very easy to cast with (im using a old used one right now) but it is on the heavy (physically) side so ill look for a rod made of grpahite which is lighter

[davej]

7/8 wieght rod?... that is way too big for fishing for small trout... trust me get a 4# those 15" trout will feel like moby dick...

[Nickk]

7/8 wieght rod?... that is way too big for fishing for small trout... trust me get a 4# those 15" trout will feel like moby dick...

I agree on a 4 or 5 weight for all around trout,panfish, and some bass use.

[Trout Slayer]

Are those ultra light weight rods hard to cast?

[davej]

You will be fine... your are using the same motion as the one you have now.. plus in back streams and brooks you don't need a 50' cast... make sure you have the local tackle shop string the one they recommend up and try it in the parking lot.. I casted for about half hour each for the rods I was considering for my 3#... Get the 4# to start with.... I started with a 5# and now hardly pick it up (unless very windy, or nymphing..)

[M2arms]

Personally, when teaching a person to cast, I begin with a medium action rod of say 33 million modulus in 4wt. After they get that conquered and before they get too sloppy, I have them switch to a full flex 2wt. The lighter weight stays aloft longer, and they now have time to look back (if they aren't already) to see their backcast straigten out. Once they get their rhythm on the slow action, only then do I put a fast or medium/fast action rod in their hands. Now they have felt a general array of actions and realize that the rod, no matter how fast or slow, is only an extension of your forearm.

You will likely find that going from a "stiff telephone pole for bass" to a light medium action 3 or 4 weight is very simple. It is all in the mental timing of the cast. Personally, I practice at an angle across my body that allows me to see the fore cast as well as the back cast. It is the only way to help yourself improve while practicing.

Again, you will definitely like the action on the entry level Scotts in the 3 or 4 weight. PM me, I might have something you would be interested in.

Michael

[davej]

M2: good info....

You ever try one of these... I find myself while on conference calls..
http://www.royalwulff.com/educational.html#fly-o

[M2arms]

Are you talking about "Joan" being a hottie? LOL wrong chat site for that LOLOL

The rodtip with the yarn on it... I made my own many years ago, but really never used it. After my 29 odd years, fishing only flies, the action never leaves your muscles. It is fun to teach you opposite hand to cast just in case you get injured. That's a good tip.

The "Joan Wristlock" is the same as my "Wrist Assist"TM, only she has Lee's last name to promote it.

MM