No weld aluminum canoe/kayak cart

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uljersey
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No weld aluminum canoe/kayak cart

Post by uljersey » Sat Mar 25, 2023 3:08 pm

Early last year I had built a cart for my canoe out of PVC pipe based on ideas I got online. It was functional and did the job but ultimately it had durability issues and broke beyond repair several weeks back. I started researching pre made carts online that ranged from $50 to well over $200 but I thought I could do better.

I wanted aluminum for the light weight & durability factor. Welding aluminum is a very specialized process and not easily done, especially if you don't own a welder. Paying a pro is an expensive option that I really didn't want to pursue if possible. I started looking into mechanical options and found these stainless connectors made for 1" square tube pipe - https://www.amazon.com/RDEXP-Connector- ... C93&sr=8-3


I rough sketched the plans on paper based on the dimensions of my failed PVC version. I calculated that I'd need 12' of material. Here's where things may get sketchy for some who are thinking of going this route - where you source the aluminum tubing is key. The big box home stores all sell it but they're expensive. I'm fortunate to have an industrial supply house in the area where I got a 12' length of thick walled (1/8") 1" aluminum tube for $25. I probably could have gone with the thin wall for a few bucks less but I opted to "over engineer" it a bit. Based on my calculations and the lengths of the different sections needed to assemble it, I determined I could have gone with two 6' lengths or a 12' length. My work truck can handle a 12' length so that's what I went with.

On to the rest of the materials ... a 36" length of threaded rod. 5/8" diameter will be the axle and fits the axle holes in the majority of wheels available. You'll want 5/8 - 11 rod which simply means 5/8 diameter/11 threads per inch which is course thread. Six flat washers and four nylock nuts. Nylock nuts have a nylon insert on one end which will lock the nut in position without the need for loctite type chemicals. The threaded rod doesn’t spin within the bottom tube, it gets locked in place by tightening the nut/washer combination against the ends of the tube. The wheels spin freely on the axle, the nylock nut that retains the wheel is not fully tightened as that would lock the wheel up. Tighten the nut snug and back it off a half turn to allow the wheel to spin free. The wheels can be had from Harbor Freight for well under $10 each. I went with 10" ones but the design of the cart will allow a larger diameter wheel if wanted.You can also source the D rings from HR to attach a ratchet strap to when securing the vessel to the cart. For the foam I went with pipe insulation but some may opt for a pool noodle.
Last edited by uljersey on Sat Mar 25, 2023 5:14 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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uljersey
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Re: No weld aluminum canoe/kayak cart

Post by uljersey » Sat Mar 25, 2023 3:19 pm

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Last edited by uljersey on Sat Mar 25, 2023 5:15 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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uljersey
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Re: No weld aluminum canoe/kayak cart

Post by uljersey » Sat Mar 25, 2023 4:46 pm

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Slazmo
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Re: No weld aluminum canoe/kayak cart

Post by Slazmo » Sat Mar 25, 2023 7:40 pm

Just for the ease of it - those cheap box trollies - cut it down to size (plug the tubes), cut the bottom box ledge down flat or to a shallow V and add pool noodles to the frames and your away.

I upgraded mine with wide golf cart wheels and a stainless steel axle and it's pretty good over soft terrain and sand.

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uljersey
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Re: No weld aluminum canoe/kayak cart

Post by uljersey » Tue Apr 04, 2023 4:22 pm

Major FAIL on the first prototype. The first time out the, both of the horizontal support bars that the canoe rests on snapped the connectors that fastened them to the vertical bars that they were fastened to. The connectors I initially used are die cast and thin at one end which apparently was a weak spot. I had to rethink my strategy for assembling the frame.

I decided on steel t-plates in conjunction with bolts & nylock nuts. I used a plate on both sides of all of the joints. Perhaps a bit of overkill/over engineering but so be it. I had to retain two of the original connectors for the axle tube to vertical bar joints as drilling through the axle tube was not an option due to the threaded axle rod on the inside. I think it will be ok as the weight bears down on the thickest section of the connector with no side loading. I also decided to go up in wheel size from 10" to 13" to decrease rolling effort over bumpy uneven terrain. The last tweak was to move the kickstand from the center of the axle tube and incorporate it onto the end of the axle tube on one side. When the canoe is loaded the kickstand raises up slightly and bears no weight at all so no need to over do that joint. The cart is quite rigid & solid and weighs a couple of ounces over 20 lbs.

When it was completed I loaded the canoe and did laps around the property and I was pleased with the results. Time will tell as to the durability but we're off to a good start.
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dragon1
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Re: No weld aluminum canoe/kayak cart

Post by dragon1 » Tue Jul 11, 2023 1:36 pm

Dang Kool ideas, just need to get the material and welding dialed in.
"It is like a finger pointing away to the Moon...don't concentrate on the finger, or you will miss all of that heavenly glory."

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